Crop guide · The mint family

How to grow peppermint

A vigorous, cold-hardy perennial herb that delivers intensely aromatic leaves for teas, cooking, and fresh use from spring through first frost.

Mentha × piperita · also called mint, black mint

Partial sun Beginner Frost-hardy
Sun
Partial sun
Provide afternoon shade once temperatures regularly exceed 85 °F (29 °C) to prevent leaf scorch and premature bolting (shift from leaf growth to flowering).
Frost
Hardy
Top growth dies back after hard frost
Spacing
18 in
45 cm between plants
Sow depth
¼ in
6 mm
To harvest
60–90 days
counted from transplant
Soil pH
6.0–7.0
slightly acidic to neutral
Timing

When to plant peppermint

Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.

Fall planting:6–8 weeks before first fall frost to allow roots to establish.
Background

Why grow peppermint

Peppermint is one of the most productive herbs per square foot, yielding multiple harvests in a single season. Its strong scent is widely reported to deter several common garden pests, making it a useful border or container plant.

A little history. Peppermint is a sterile hybrid of watermint and spearmint, first documented in England in the late 17th century; it does not set viable seed and must be propagated by division or cuttings.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Transplant outside

After last frost

Containers strongly preferred — peppermint spreads aggressively by underground runners (rhizomes) and will overtake a bed within one season. In containers: 5-gallon pot, at least 12 inches deep. Space plants 18 inches (45 cm) apart.

Water and feed

All season

Water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry; more frequently in containers, which dry out faster than beds. Water when leaves begin to look slightly dull or stems soften slightly before wilting. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.

Side-dress (scatter fertilizer along the plant base and water in) once in early spring and once after the first hard harvest. What to use: balanced compost or a 5–5-5 organic granular; avoid high-nitrogen feeds that dilute leaf oils.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

Pinch out the top two sets of leaves once stems reach 6–8 inches to encourage bushy growth. Remove flower buds as soon as they appear — once the plant flowers, leaf production slows and oil concentration drops.

Harvest and store

60–90 days from transplant

It's ready when harvest when stems are 6–8 inches tall and just before flower buds open — this is when leaf oil concentration is highest. Leaves should be deep green and fully expanded. Cut stems back by one-third to one-half with clean scissors, just above a leaf node (the point where a leaf meets the stem). Never remove more than one-third of the plant at one cutting.

Stand cut stems in a glass of water at room temperature for up to 5 days, or wrap loosely in a damp paper towel and refrigerate for up to 1 week. Dry or freeze for longer storage.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Tomato

The strong volatile scent of peppermint foliage can make it harder for aphids and whiteflies to locate tomatoes by smell. Keep the mint in a sunken pot beside the tomato so its runners never reach the tomato's root zone.

Cabbage

Aromatic mint foliage nearby often reduces cabbage white butterfly and cabbage aphid landings, which find their host by scent. The effect is modest under heavy pest pressure, so pair it with row cover on young plants.

Garden Pea

Gardeners have long set potted mint at the foot of a pea trellis, where both enjoy cool, evenly moist soil and the peas' light shade suits mint in early summer. No pest effect has been demonstrated, so treat it as a comfortable match of conditions.

Carrot

Mint's pungent foliage can help mask the carrot smell that guides the carrot rust fly to a row. Grow the mint in a buried container at the row's edge — loose in the bed, its runners will tangle the carrot roots and ruin digging.

Keep it away from

Parsley

Peppermint spreads by underground runners and will thread through a parsley clump within one season, making the parsley impossible to lift or divide cleanly. Keep mint in its own pot, or at least 24 inches away behind a root barrier.

Chamomile

Chamomile is a light, shallow-rooted plant that mint runners quickly crowd out, and mint's dense leafy growth shades the low chamomile flowers. Give chamomile its own space where it can reseed without being overrun.

Bush Bean

Mint spreads by underground runners and will thread through a bean row within a season, making picking and bed cleanup difficult. Grow it in a sunken pot or a separate bed.

Tarragon

Mint runs underground and will thread through a tarragon crown within a season, making division impossible without tearing the clump apart. Grow mint in its own sunken pot or a separate bed.

Chervil

Mint spreads by runners and will overrun a low, short-lived herb like chervil within a season. Keep mint in its own sunken pot or a separate bed.

Hyssop

Peppermint travels by runners and will thread through a hyssop crown within one season, and once it is inside a woody perennial it cannot be weeded out cleanly. Grow mint in a sunken pot or a separate bed well away from the herb border.

Lemon Balm

Peppermint travels by runners and will grow straight through a lemon balm crown in a season or two, leaving you unpicking two look-alike mint-family plants. Give each its own pot or a sunken bottomless bucket.

Mizuna

Mint spreads by runners and will thread through a low bed of greens within one season, making clean cutting impossible. Grow it in a sunken pot or a separate bed.

Shiso

Peppermint travels by underground runners and will thread through a shiso patch in a single season, making clean picking impossible. Grow it in its own container, or sink a bottomless pot to contain the roots.

Mitsuba

Mint spreads by runners through exactly the cool, moist, shaded ground mitsuba wants, and will overrun a clump within a season. Keep mint in a sunken pot or a separate bed; the problem is spread, not chemistry.

Ginger

Mint spreads by running stems just under the surface and will thread straight through a ginger clump, making it impossible to lift rhizomes cleanly. Keep mint in its own container, never in the ginger bed.

Sesame

Mint spreads by runners and will fill the row before sesame is knee-high, making it hard to cut and dry whole stalks cleanly. Keep it in a sunken pot or a separate bed.

Grape

Mint spreads by runners and will fill the strip along the trunk, making it hard to weed, mulch, or spot suckers at the base of the vine. If you want it nearby, sink it in a buried pot or keep it in a separate container.

Pomegranate

Mint runs on underground stems and will fill a young pomegranate's root zone in a single season, competing for water and making mulching and weeding awkward. Grow it in a sunken pot or a separate bed.

Lingonberry

Mint runs underground and will thread straight through a low lingonberry mat, and you cannot pull it out without tearing up the berry plants' shallow roots. Grow mint in a sunk pot or a separate bed well away.

Yarrow

Mint runs underground faster than yarrow and will thread through and swamp the clump, making both impossible to lift cleanly. Keep mint in a sunken pot or a separate bed.

See peppermint in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Rotation

A perennial — it holds its spot for years, so it sits outside the annual rotation.

Peppermint is a perennial and holds its ground year after year, so no rotation gap applies. It is a moderate feeder that returns little to the soil beyond leaf litter. If you remove a clump, dig out every runner fragment first — any piece left behind resprouts into whatever you plant next.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Aphids

Sign
Clusters of small soft-bodied insects on new growth; sticky residue on leaves below.
Fix
Knock off with a firm water spray; repeat daily for three days. Apply insecticidal soap if colonies persist.

Spider mites

Sign
Fine webbing on leaf undersides; leaves develop pale stippling and feel gritty.
Fix
Increase humidity around the plant and spray leaf undersides with water. Apply insecticidal soap in severe cases.

Flea beetles

Sign
Tiny round holes scattered across leaves, as if peppered with a pin.
Fix
Cover young plants with row cover; remove it once plants are established and vigorous enough to outgrow minor damage.

Diseases

Mint rust

Sign
Orange or brown powdery pustules on leaf undersides; leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
Prevent
Remove and bin all affected material immediately; do not compost. Improve air circulation by thinning crowded stems. Avoid overhead watering.

Powdery mildew

Sign
White powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces, most common in late summer.
Prevent
Space plants to allow airflow; water at the base rather than overhead. Cut affected stems back hard and dispose of them.

Verticillium wilt

Sign
Stems wilt and collapse from the base upward despite adequate soil moisture; internal stem tissue may show brown discoloration.
Prevent
Plant in well-drained soil; avoid overwatering. Remove and dispose of affected plants. Refresh container soil every two years.
FAQ

Common questions about peppermint

When should I plant peppermint?
Spring: after last frost, once soil reaches 50 °F (10 °C). Fall: 6–8 weeks before first fall frost to allow roots to establish.
How long until peppermint is ready to harvest?
60–90 days, counted from transplant. It's ready when harvest when stems are 6–8 inches tall and just before flower buds open — this is when leaf oil concentration is highest. Leaves should be deep green and fully expanded.
Can I grow peppermint in a container?
Containers strongly preferred — peppermint spreads aggressively by underground runners (rhizomes) and will overtake a bed within one season. In containers: 5-gallon pot, at least 12 inches deep.
How often should I water peppermint?
Water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry; more frequently in containers, which dry out faster than beds. Water when leaves begin to look slightly dull or stems soften slightly before wilting.
How should I store peppermint after harvest?
Stand cut stems in a glass of water at room temperature for up to 5 days, or wrap loosely in a damp paper towel and refrigerate for up to 1 week. Dry or freeze for longer storage.
Can peppermint stay in the ground over winter?
Cut stems to 2 inches above soil after the first killing frost. Mulch the crown with 2–3 inches of straw in cold climates. Roots re-sprout in spring without intervention.

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