Crop guide · The daisy and sunflower family

How to grow Yarrow

A tough perennial with flat flower clusters whose shallow nectar feeds hoverflies, lacewings, and tiny parasitic wasps all summer.

Achillea millefolium · also called Common yarrow, Milfoil

Full sun Beginner Frost-hardy
Sun
Full sun
Tolerates light afternoon shade above 95 °F (35 °C), though stems stretch and flop more
Frost
Hardy
Survives hard frost. Top growth dies back in winter and the crown resprouts from the base in spring.
Spacing
15 in
40 cm between plants
To harvest
90–120 days
counted from sowing
Timing

When to plant Yarrow

Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.

Summer:set out nursery plants through midsummer if watered until established.
Fall planting:surface-sow 4–6 weeks before first frost for spring emergence.
Too late?Stop spring sowing once days regularly top 85 °F (29 °C) — switch to a late-summer or fall sowing instead.
Background

Why grow Yarrow

Yarrow is the most reliable insectary plant a home gardener can add: its wide flower heads hold hundreds of tiny florets that small beneficial insects can actually reach. It thrives on lean soil and little water.

A little history. Each flat head is a cluster of many small daisy-like flowers, so the shallow nectar sits within reach of short-tongued beneficial insects. Leaves are finely divided, giving a feathery outline.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Sow outside

2–4 weeks before last frost

Aim for 15 inches (40 cm) between plants once thinned. Press seed onto the surface and do not cover — it needs light. Mist daily so the top quarter-inch never dries. Seedlings emerge in 7–21 days.

Best soil temp 65–75 °F (18–24 °C) Minimum 50 °F (10 °C) Emerges in 7–21 days

Transplant outside

Sow or set out plants 2-4 weeks before last frost

Either works — needs 8 in soil depth and sharp drainage; spreads by runners in open beds. In containers: 3-gallon pot, wider rather than deeper.

Water and feed

All season

Water weekly the first season, then only in long dry spells. Water when water when leaves look dull and the top 2 inches are dry. Aim for about 1 inch per week while establishing.

Once in early spring, or not at all on decent soil. What to use: a thin scatter of compost; skip high-nitrogen feed, which causes flopping.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

Cut spent flower heads back to a side bud to bring a second flush. Shear the whole plant to 6 in after the main bloom if stems sprawl.

Harvest and store

90–120 days from sowing

It's ready when cut flowers when most florets in a head are fully open and the color is firm — heads cut in tight bud dry papery and pale. Cut stems in mid-morning after dew dries, taking them low on the stem just above a set of leaves. Strip lower leaves at once so the stem stays clean for drying or the vase.

Fresh stems last 7–10 days in water. For dried use, bundle 8–10 stems and hang upside down in a dark, airy room for 2–3 weeks.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Sea Buckthorn

Sea buckthorn wants the same lean, sharply drained, sunny ground yarrow prefers, and yarrow's long bloom draws in the hoverflies and lacewings that work over aphid colonies on the shrub's new shoots.

Hops

Hop bines are chronically troubled by aphids and spider mites. Yarrow planted at the foot of the trellis, outside the digging zone, gives predatory insects a nectar source all season so they stay near the bines.

Goji Berry

Goji tolerates the same dry, alkaline-leaning soil as yarrow, and yarrow's open florets bring in the lacewings and parasitic wasps that reduce the aphids clustering on goji's soft shoot tips.

Bee Balm

The pair covers two different guests: bee balm's tubular flowers draw bees and hummingbirds, while yarrow's shallow florets serve the small short-tongued insects that cannot reach into a tube. Give both good air movement, since each can get powdery mildew when crowded.

Elderberry

Elderberry blooms early and then offers nothing to beneficial insects. Yarrow flowering from early summer into fall keeps hoverflies and parasitic wasps on site, where they work over the aphids that curl elderberry shoot tips.

Stinging Nettle

Nettle hosts early-season aphids that feed the first generation of ladybugs and lacewings; yarrow then supplies the nectar those adults need to keep laying. Plant both in a contained edge patch, as each spreads by runners.

Lavender

Both want full sun, lean soil, and sharp drainage, and neither wants summer watering once rooted. Grouping them lets you keep a whole dry border on the same watering schedule while extending nectar supply for weeks.

Grape

Flowering ground cover in vineyard rows has been shown to support more predatory insects and parasitic wasps. Yarrow along the row edge fills that role without competing much with deep grape roots.

Keep it away from

Fennel

Fennel's roots release compounds that stunt most garden neighbours, and a young yarrow clump is easily overtopped by it as well. Fennel's own flowers do feed hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps, so keep it as a separate insectary patch well away from this one.

Peppermint

Mint runs underground faster than yarrow and will thread through and swamp the clump, making both impossible to lift cleanly. Keep mint in a sunken pot or a separate bed.

Lettuce

Yarrow spreads by shallow runners and shades low salad rows as it fills out, so it out-muscles lettuce for surface moisture and light. Keep it to a border rather than inside a salad bed.

Seedling Beds Of Any Direct-sown Crop

An established yarrow clump colonises open ground with creeping stems and will crowd out slow, small seedlings before they get going. Site it at the bed edge or in its own strip where you can cut the runners back once a year.

See Yarrow in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Rotation

A perennial — it holds its spot for years, so it sits outside the annual rotation.

Yarrow is a long-lived perennial, so it sits outside the annual rotation — give it a permanent border or strip rather than a bed you plan to till. It is a moderate feeder that adds no nitrogen, and there is no waiting period for any family that follows if you do remove it.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Aphids

Sign
Clusters of small green or black insects on new stem tips and under flower clusters.
Fix
Rinse off with a hose; leave the rest for the ladybugs and lacewings that yarrow attracts.

Spittlebugs

Sign
Frothy white spit-like blobs on stems in early summer, with a small insect inside.
Fix
Hose the foam off. Damage is cosmetic and needs no spray.

Slugs

Sign
Ragged holes in low spring foliage and slime trails near the crown.
Fix
Pull mulch back from the crown and hand-pick after dark for a week.

Diseases

Powdery mildew

Sign
Dusty white patches on upper leaf surfaces in late summer, worst on crowded plants.
Prevent
Space plants 15 in apart, thin crowded clumps, and water at the soil line rather than overhead.

Crown and root rot

Sign
Stems blacken at the base and the clump collapses after a wet spell; roots feel mushy.
Prevent
Plant on a slight mound in sharply drained soil and never mulch right against the crown.

Rust

Sign
Small rusty-orange raised spots on leaf undersides, leaves yellowing from the bottom up.
Prevent
Remove affected leaves, clear old stems in late fall, and keep foliage dry overnight.
Good to know:Leaves and flowers are used only sparingly as a bitter herb or tea; some people get a skin rash from handling the foliage. Do not treat it as a salad green.
FAQ

Common questions about Yarrow

When should I plant Yarrow?
Spring: sow or set out plants 2–4 weeks before last frost. Summer: set out nursery plants through midsummer if watered until established.
How long until Yarrow is ready to harvest?
90–120 days, counted from sowing. It's ready when cut flowers when most florets in a head are fully open and the color is firm — heads cut in tight bud dry papery and pale.
Can I grow Yarrow in a container?
Either works — needs 8 in soil depth and sharp drainage; spreads by runners in open beds. In containers: 3-gallon pot, wider rather than deeper.
How often should I water Yarrow?
Water weekly the first season, then only in long dry spells. Water when water when leaves look dull and the top 2 inches are dry.
Is any part of Yarrow unsafe to eat?
Leaves and flowers are used only sparingly as a bitter herb or tea; some people get a skin rash from handling the foliage. Do not treat it as a salad green.
How should I store Yarrow after harvest?
Fresh stems last 7–10 days in water. For dried use, bundle 8–10 stems and hang upside down in a dark, airy room for 2–3 weeks.

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