Crop guide · The onion family

How to grow leeks

A cold-hardy, slow-growing allium that delivers mild, sweet onion flavor from late summer through deep winter when little else is in the ground.

Allium ampeloprasum · also called garden leek, pot leek

Full sun Intermediate Frost-hardy
Sun
Full sun
Light afternoon shade once temperatures stay above 90 °F (32 °C) helps prevent premature bolting (the shift from leaf growth to flowering).
Frost
Hardy
Survives hard frost to around 10 °F (-12 °C) once established
Spacing
6 in
15 cm between plants
Sow depth
¼ in
6 mm
To harvest
70–120 days
counted from transplant
Soil pH
6.0–7.0
slightly acidic to neutral
Timing

When to plant leeks

Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.

Winter planting:10–12 weeks before last frost, indoors under lights.
Summer:late spring to early summer for a winter harvest.
Too late?Skip transplanting once summer temperatures regularly exceed 90 °F (32 °C) — seedlings stall; aim to have transplants in the ground by midsummer for a winter crop.
Background

Why grow leeks

Leeks occupy the bed during the hungry gap between autumn and early spring, tolerating hard frost that would kill most crops. Their long blanched shanks (the pale, tender lower stem produced by excluding light) are more versatile in the kitchen than bulbing onions.

A little history. Native to the eastern Mediterranean and western Asia; cultivated since at least ancient Egyptian times per archaeobotanical records. Unlike bulbing onions, leeks form a tight cylinder of leaf sheaths rather than a discrete bulb.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Start seeds indoors

10-12 weeks before last frost, indoors under lights

Sow 0.25 inches deep; keep the top half-inch moist until sprouts show — the seed coat is thin and dries out quickly. Seedlings emerge in 7–14 days in warm soil.

Best soil temp 65–75 °F (18–24 °C) Minimum 45 °F (7 °C) Emerges in 7–14 days

Sow outside

Late spring to early summer for a winter harvest

Sow seeds ¼ inch (6 mm) deep.

Transplant outside

4–6 weeks before last frost

Beds strongly preferred — deep, loose soil is needed for blanching; containers work only if at least 12 inches deep. In containers: 5-gallon pot, minimum 12 inches deep. Space plants 6 inches (15 cm) apart.

Water and feed

All season

Deep soak once or twice a week; more frequently during dry spells in summer. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.

Side-dress (scatter fertilizer along the row and water in) every 3–4 weeks from transplant through midsummer. What to use: balanced 5–5-5 organic or compost-enriched soil; leeks are moderate feeders.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

Trim seedling tops to 3–4 inches before transplanting to reduce transplant stress. Remove any flower stalks immediately if they appear — once a leek bolts, the shank becomes woody and inedible.

Harvest and store

70–120 days from transplant

It's ready when shank is at least 1 inch in diameter and 3–4 inches of pale blanched stem is visible above soil level; harvest before a flower stalk emerges from the center. Loosen soil with a fork 2–3 inches from the shank, then lever gently upward and pull. Avoid yanking — the shank snaps easily. Trim roots and dark green flag leaves before storing.

Unwashed, in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to 2 weeks; or leave in the ground and harvest as needed through winter until the ground freezes solid.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Carrot

The onion smell of leek foliage can help hide carrots from carrot rust fly, while carrot foliage does the same for the flies that hunt alliums. Interplanting studies show real but inconsistent reductions, so keep row covers as the main defense.

Celery

Gardeners have long set celery beside leeks in the same rich, evenly moist bed, and both are earthed up the same way. No mechanism has been demonstrated, but neither crop crowds the other.

Parsnip

Parsnip drives a deep taproot while leeks feed from shallow, fibrous roots in the top few inches, so the two often share a long-season bed without fighting over water. Give each its own row so digging parsnips does not lift leek roots.

The Cabbage Family

Strong-smelling leek foliage can make it harder for cabbage root fly and aphids to locate cabbage, kale, and broccoli by scent. The effect is modest under heavy pest pressure, so pair it with mesh over young brassicas.

Keep it away from

Garden Pea

Old companion charts keep peas away from the onion family, and the pairing is repeated in most garden books. No mechanism has ever been demonstrated, so treat it as tradition rather than fact and separate them only if you have bed space to spare.

Green Bean

Beans are said to sulk beside leeks, onions, and garlic, a pairing warning that has been copied from chart to chart for a century. Trials have not confirmed it, so plant them apart only as a precaution.

See leeks in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Family rest

Give the onion family 4 years away from this spot before any of its relatives return.

Good next crops

The pea and bean family, the squash family or the beet family thrive in this ground next season.

Leeks are moderate feeders that leave the soil loose from earthing up but return little to it, so top up with compost after lifting. Keep all onion-family crops out of this bed for 4 years to blunt white rot and allium leaf miner. Follow with legumes, squash and cucumbers, or beets and chard.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Onion thrips

Sign
Silver-white streaking or stippling on leaves; tiny straw-colored insects visible in leaf folds.
Fix
Spray with insecticidal soap, directing it into the leaf folds; repeat every 5-7 days until populations drop.

Leek moth

Sign
Pale blotchy mines (tunnels eaten through leaf tissue) and small caterpillars inside the shank.
Fix
Cover transplants with fine insect-proof mesh immediately after planting; remove and destroy affected leaves.

Allium leaf miner

Sign
Rows of white feeding punctures along leaves, followed by pale tunnels and maggots inside the shank.
Fix
Use fine insect-proof mesh from transplant to harvest; no effective spray once larvae are inside the plant.

Slugs

Sign
Ragged holes in young leaves, silvery slime trails on soil and foliage.
Fix
Set out iron phosphate bait around the base of plants after watering; remove debris where slugs shelter.

Diseases

Leek rust

Sign
Bright orange powdery pustules on leaf surfaces, typically appearing in late summer or autumn.
Prevent
Space plants at least 6 inches apart for airflow; avoid overhead watering; remove and bin affected leaves promptly.

White rot

Sign
Yellowing outer leaves, rotted base with fluffy white fungal growth and tiny black resting bodies.
Prevent
Rotate alliums to a fresh bed every 3-4 years; do not compost infected material — the resting bodies persist in soil for 20+ years.

Downy mildew

Sign
Pale oval patches on leaves with a grey-violet fuzzy coating on the underside in cool, wet weather.
Prevent
Improve airflow by correct spacing; avoid wetting foliage; choose resistant varieties where available.
FAQ

Common questions about leeks

When should I plant leeks?
Winter: 10–12 weeks before last frost, indoors under lights. Spring: 4–6 weeks before last frost, once soil is workable.
How long until leeks are ready to harvest?
70–120 days, counted from transplant. It's ready when shank is at least 1 inch in diameter and 3–4 inches of pale blanched stem is visible above soil level; harvest before a flower stalk emerges from the center.
Can I grow leeks in a container?
Beds strongly preferred — deep, loose soil is needed for blanching; containers work only if at least 12 inches deep. In containers: 5-gallon pot, minimum 12 inches deep.
How often should I water leeks?
Deep soak once or twice a week; more frequently during dry spells in summer. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
How should I store leeks after harvest?
Unwashed, in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to 2 weeks; or leave in the ground and harvest as needed through winter until the ground freezes solid.
Can leeks stay in the ground over winter?
Hardy varieties left in the ground over winter should be mulched with straw once the soil begins to freeze; harvest before the ground becomes unworkable or before spring regrowth begins, which triggers bolting.

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