Crop guide · The nightshade family

How to grow Goji Berry

A hardy, long-lived shrub that produces small, sweet-tart red berries over a remarkably long season with minimal inputs once established.

Lycium barbarum · also called wolfberry, Chinese wolfberry

Full sun Intermediate Frost-hardy
Sun
Full sun
Tolerates heat well
Frost
Hardy
Established plants survive temperatures well below 0F
Spacing
60 in
150 cm between plants
Sow depth
⅛ in
3 mm
To harvest
365–730 days
counted from transplant
Soil pH
6.5–8.0
neutral to alkaline
Timing

When to plant Goji Berry

Spring
Transplant

After last frost, once soil has warmed to at least 50 °F (10 °C).

Fall
Transplant

6–8 weeks before first expected frost to allow root establishment.

Too late?Skip fall transplanting if fewer than 6 weeks remain before first frost — roots will not establish in time to survive winter.
Background

Why grow Goji Berry

Goji produces fruit for decades from a single planting and tolerates drought, poor soil, and hard frost that would kill most fruiting shrubs. The fresh berries, rarely available commercially, have a flavor distinct from the dried product.

A little history. Native to temperate regions of China and widely naturalized elsewhere; a deciduous shrub in the nightshade family, bearing arching canes that can reach 8-10 feet if unpruned. Documented in Chinese agricultural records for over a millennium.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Transplant outside

After last frost

Beds strongly preferred; deep, spreading roots make long-term container culture difficult and reduces yield significantly. In containers: 25-gallon container minimum; yields will be limited. Space plants 60 inches (150 cm) apart.

Water and feed

All season

Water deeply once or twice a week during the first season; established plants need water only during prolonged dry spells. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry during the establishment year. Aim for about 1 inch per week in year one; less once established.

Side-dress (scatter fertilizer along the drip line and water in) once in early spring and once after the first flush of fruit. What to use: balanced compost or low-nitrogen organic fertilizer; excess nitrogen favors cane growth over fruit.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

In late winter before bud break, remove dead or crossing canes and cut back the previous year's laterals (side shoots) to 2–3 buds. Pinch shoot tips in the first year to encourage branching. Fruit forms on second-year wood.

Harvest and store

365–730 days from transplant

It's ready when berries are fully ripe when uniformly bright orange-red, slightly soft to the touch, and release easily from the stem with a gentle roll between fingers. Cup a cluster in your palm and roll ripe berries off with your thumb — do not pull, as the stems are thorny. Harvest every 2–3 days during peak season; ripe berries drop quickly.

Fresh berries keep 3–5 days refrigerated in a single layer. Dry at 95–115 °F (35–46 °C) until leathery for long-term storage; dried berries keep 12 months in an airtight container.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Lavender

Lavender's long bloom brings bees into the planting through the weeks goji is flowering, which often improves fruit set even though goji sets some fruit on its own. It also asks for the same lean soil and dry summers, so watering never conflicts.

Rosemary

A strongly aromatic shrub planted at the edge of the goji row can help confuse aphids that locate new shoot tips by smell. The effect is modest under heavy pressure, but rosemary shares goji's need for full sun and sharp drainage, so it costs nothing to try.

Yarrow

Yarrow's flat flower heads reliably draw in hoverflies, lacewings, and tiny parasitic wasps whose larvae feed on aphids — the pest most likely to colonize goji's soft new canes in spring. Let a clump flower a few feet from the shrub.

Garlic

Garlic's onion scent often reduces aphid landings on nearby soft growth, and its shallow roots and early summer harvest keep it out of the goji's way. Plant it in the open ground beyond the drip line so digging bulbs does not tear surface roots.

Keep it away from

Tomato

Goji and tomato are both in the nightshade family and host the same soilborne wilts and leaf diseases. Since the goji bed is permanent, keeping tomatoes out of it and out of the beds beside it stops disease from cycling year after year.

Bell Pepper

Peppers share goji's family and its susceptibility to the same root and stem diseases. A permanent shrub cannot be rotated away from an infected spot, so give peppers their own bed well clear of the goji's root zone.

Potato

Potatoes carry nightshade-family wilts and blights, and digging tubers next to a goji both spreads that soil and tears the shrub's spreading surface roots. Keep at least one bed between them.

See Goji Berry in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Rotation

A perennial — it holds its spot for years, so it sits outside the annual rotation.

Goji is a permanent planting, so there is no yearly rotation — the bed is spoken for. It is a moderate feeder that leaves behind a dense woody root mass. If the shrub is ever removed, wait 3 years before planting tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, or eggplant in that ground.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Aphids

Sign
Clusters of small soft insects on new shoot tips; leaves curl downward and may become sticky.
Fix
Knock off with a firm water spray; apply insecticidal soap to undersides of leaves if colonies persist.

Spider mites

Sign
Fine stippling on leaves, tiny moving dots on leaf undersides, and delicate webbing in hot dry weather.
Fix
Increase humidity around the plant and spray undersides of leaves with water; use insecticidal soap for heavy infestations.

Goji berry fruit fly (fruit-boring flies)

Sign
Small entry holes in ripening berries; fruit collapses or rots prematurely.
Fix
Remove and destroy affected fruit immediately; use fine mesh netting over ripening clusters.

Diseases

Powdery mildew

Sign
White powdery coating on leaf surfaces, most common in warm days with cool humid nights.
Prevent
Space plants for good airflow; avoid overhead watering; remove affected growth promptly.

Root rot

Sign
Sudden wilting despite moist soil; roots appear brown and soft rather than white and firm.
Prevent
Plant in well-drained soil; avoid overwatering; do not mulch directly against the crown.

Anthracnose

Sign
Dark sunken spots on stems and berries, often with a salmon-colored spore mass in wet weather.
Prevent
Remove infected material; improve air circulation; avoid wetting foliage when watering.
Good to know:Young leaves are edible when cooked, but as with all nightshade-family plants, unripe green berries should not be eaten — they contain compounds that cause digestive upset.
FAQ

Common questions about Goji Berry

When should I plant Goji Berry?
Spring: after last frost, once soil has warmed to at least 50 °F (10 °C). Fall: 6–8 weeks before first expected frost to allow root establishment.
How long until Goji Berry is ready to harvest?
365–730 days, counted from transplant. It's ready when berries are fully ripe when uniformly bright orange-red, slightly soft to the touch, and release easily from the stem with a gentle roll between fingers.
Can I grow Goji Berry in a container?
Beds strongly preferred; deep, spreading roots make long-term container culture difficult and reduces yield significantly. In containers: 25-gallon container minimum; yields will be limited.
How often should I water Goji Berry?
Water deeply once or twice a week during the first season; established plants need water only during prolonged dry spells. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry during the establishment year.
Is any part of Goji Berry unsafe to eat?
Young leaves are edible when cooked, but as with all nightshade-family plants, unripe green berries should not be eaten — they contain compounds that cause digestive upset.
How should I store Goji Berry after harvest?
Fresh berries keep 3–5 days refrigerated in a single layer. Dry at 95–115 °F (35–46 °C) until leathery for long-term storage; dried berries keep 12 months in an airtight container.

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