Crop guide · The mint family

How to grow basil

A warm-season annual herb that produces fragrant, tender leaves from early summer until the first frost, rewarding frequent harvests with bushier, more productive growth.

Ocimum basilicum · also called sweet basil, common basil

Full sun Beginner Frost-tender
Sun
Full sun
Light afternoon shade above 95 °F (35 °C) slows wilting and reduces leaf scorch without cutting yield.
Frost
Tender
Killed by the first light frost
Spacing
12 in
30 cm between plants
Sow depth
¼ in
6 mm
To harvest
21–35 days
counted from transplant
Soil pH
6.0–7.0
slightly acidic to neutral
Timing

When to plant basil

Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.

Summer:up to 10 weeks before first fall frost for a late-season planting.
Too late?Skip a new sowing once fewer than 10 weeks remain before your first fall frost — plants will not size up before cold kills them.
Background

Why grow basil

Home-grown basil harvested minutes before use has a depth of fragrance that store-bought, refrigerated bunches cannot match. A single plant kept well-pinched can supply a household through the entire summer.

A little history. Native to tropical Asia and widely cultivated across the Mediterranean basin; a member of the mint family, Lamiaceae. Leaf oil glands are visible as translucent dots when a leaf is held to light.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Start seeds indoors

6–8 weeks before last frost

Press seeds lightly onto moist mix; do not bury deeper than ¼ inch. Keep surface evenly moist — let it dry even once and germination stalls. Seedlings emerge in 5–10 days in warm soil.

Best soil temp 70–85 °F (21–29 °C) Minimum 60 °F (16 °C) Emerges in 5–10 days

Sow outside

2 weeks after last frost

Sow seeds ¼ inch (6 mm) deep.

Transplant outside

2 weeks after last frost

Either works well — needs at least 8 inches of soil depth and excellent drainage; containers warm faster in spring. In containers: 2-gallon pot minimum; 5-gallon for multiple plants. Space plants 12 inches (30 cm) apart.

Water and feed

All season

Water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry, roughly every 2–3 days in warm weather. Water when leaves begin to droop slightly and the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Aim for about 1 inch per week; increase in heat or containers.

Side-dress (scatter fertilizer along the base and water in) every 3–4 weeks once plants are 6 inches tall. What to use: balanced 5–5-5 organic granular or diluted compost tea; avoid high-nitrogen feeds that reduce leaf fragrance.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

Pinch out the growing tip (the topmost cluster of leaves) once the plant has 3 pairs of true leaves (the full-shaped leaves that follow the first rounded seed leaves). Repeat whenever a stem reaches 6 inches. Remove flower buds the moment they appear — once a stem flowers, leaf production on that stem stops.

Harvest and store

21–35 days from transplant

It's ready when harvest once a stem has at least 3 pairs of leaves. Leaves are at peak fragrance just before flower buds open. Do not wait for buds to open. Cut each stem just above a pair of leaves, leaving at least one pair below the cut. This forces two new shoots from the remaining leaf axils (the joint where leaf meets stem), doubling the branching.

Do not refrigerate — cold blackens leaves within hours. Stand cut stems in an inch of water at room temperature, loosely covered, for up to 5 days. Freeze as pesto for longer storage.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Tomato

Basil's strong leaf scent can help hide tomatoes from thrips and whiteflies that locate hosts by smell, and trials show modest reductions under low pest pressure. Both crops want the same heat, sun, and steady water, so they are easy to tend side by side.

Bell Pepper

The aromatic foliage can help confuse aphids and thrips hunting peppers by scent. Basil also stays low and bushy under a pepper's open canopy, so neither shades the other out.

Oregano

Oregano allowed to flower often draws in hoverflies, lacewings, and tiny parasitic wasps that hunt the aphids and thrips found on basil. Give each plant its own 12-inch space so the spreading oregano does not crowd basil roots.

French Marigold

French marigold roots have been shown to reduce root-knot nematodes in the soil, but only when the bed is planted thickly with them or the plants are chopped and turned in at season's end. A few flowers along the edge will not do it.

Keep it away from

Sage

Old charts keep these two apart, with no measured mechanism behind it. The practical reason to separate them is water: sage wants lean soil that dries between drinks, while basil sulks the moment it does, so one plant is always being watered wrong.

Fennel

Fennel roots release substances that stunt most garden vegetables, basil included, and it competes hard for water besides. Grown well away in its own corner it earns a place, since its flat flower heads feed hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps.

Lavender

Basil wants steady moisture and rich soil; lavender wants neither. Watering to keep basil happy keeps the ground around lavender's crown damp, which is the fastest route to root rot.

French Lavender

Basil needs rich soil and steady moisture; watering to keep basil happy holds lavender roots wet and invites root rot, while watering to suit lavender leaves basil wilted and stunted.

Bee Balm

Bee balm spreads by shallow runners and can reach 3 feet or more, shading and out-rooting a young basil plant before midsummer. Keep basil in its own bed or pot where it gets uncontested sun and water.

Rosemary

Basil wants rich soil and steady moisture, while rosemary declines in wet, well-fed ground. Sharing a pot usually means one of them is watered wrong, and rosemary is the one that rots. Grow them in separate containers.

Lemon Thyme

Basil wants rich soil and steady moisture; thyme wants lean soil that dries between waterings. Sharing a pot means one of them is always being watered or fed wrong, and thyme usually loses first to root rot.

Thyme

Basil wants steadily moist, richly fed soil, while thyme needs to dry out almost completely between waterings. Sharing a pot or row means one plant is always wrong, and thyme is the one that rots.

See basil in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Family rest

Easy-going — Basil can grow almost anywhere in the rotation without a strict rest.

Good next crops

The pea and bean family, the cabbage family or the tomato family thrive in this ground next season.

A light feeder that takes little and leaves soil in good shape, with only shallow roots and soft stems to break down. Leave one season before basil returns to the same spot, longer where wilt has shown up. Beans, cabbage-family greens, or tomatoes all follow well.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Aphids

Sign
Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on new growth and stem tips; sticky residue on leaves below.
Fix
Knock off with a firm water spray; follow with insecticidal soap if colonies persist after two days.

Japanese beetles

Sign
Irregular holes chewed through leaves, often leaving a lacy skeleton; metallic green-bronze beetles visible on foliage.
Fix
Hand-pick beetles into soapy water in the early morning when they are sluggish.

Thrips

Sign
Silver-streaked or stippled leaf surfaces; tiny, fast-moving sliver-shaped insects visible with a hand lens.
Fix
Remove heavily infested leaves; apply insecticidal soap to undersides of remaining foliage.

Diseases

Basil downy mildew

Sign
Yellow patches on upper leaf surface with a gray-purple fuzzy coating on the underside directly beneath the yellow areas.
Prevent
Choose resistant varieties such as 'Eleonora' or 'Rutgers Obsession'; space plants 12 inches apart and water at the base to keep foliage dry.

Fusarium wilt

Sign
Sudden wilting of one or more stems; brown streaking visible inside the stem when cut lengthwise; stunted growth.
Prevent
Use certified disease-free seed; do not replant basil in the same spot for at least 3 years; improve drainage.

Botrytis gray mold

Sign
Water-soaked brown lesions on stems or leaves that develop a gray fuzzy coating in humid conditions.
Prevent
Remove dead or damaged plant material promptly; improve air circulation by thinning crowded stems.
FAQ

Common questions about basil

When should I plant basil?
Spring: 6–8 weeks before last frost, transplant out 2 weeks after last frost. Spring: 2 weeks after last frost, once soil stays above 60 °F (16 °C) at night.
How long until basil is ready to harvest?
21–35 days, counted from transplant. It's ready when harvest once a stem has at least 3 pairs of leaves. Leaves are at peak fragrance just before flower buds open. Do not wait for buds to open.
Can I grow basil in a container?
Either works well — needs at least 8 inches of soil depth and excellent drainage; containers warm faster in spring. In containers: 2-gallon pot minimum; 5-gallon for multiple plants.
How often should I water basil?
Water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry, roughly every 2–3 days in warm weather. Water when leaves begin to droop slightly and the top inch of soil is dry to the touch.
How should I store basil after harvest?
Do not refrigerate — cold blackens leaves within hours. Stand cut stems in an inch of water at room temperature, loosely covered, for up to 5 days. Freeze as pesto for longer storage.

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