Crop guide · The mint family

How to grow Summer Savory

A slender annual herb sown straight into warm soil and clipped all summer for a peppery, thyme-like seasoning that suits beans, sausage, and vinegars.

Satureja hortensis · also called Bean herb, Garden savory

Full sun Beginner Frost-tender
Sun
Full sun
Takes full sun even in heat
Frost
Tender
Killed by the first hard frost and damaged by a light one. Cut and dry the plant before frost is forecast.
Spacing
6 in
15 cm between plants
Sow depth
⅛ in
3 mm
To harvest
55–70 days
counted from sowing
Timing

When to plant Summer Savory

Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.

Summer:early summer, for a second batch of tender growth.
Too late?Skip sowing less than 10 weeks before your first fall frost — plants will not size up before cold ends them.
Background

Why grow Summer Savory

It is one of the quickest herbs from seed to first cutting, asks for little food or water, and its small flowers keep bees and tiny beneficial wasps working the bed through midsummer.

A little history. Native to the eastern Mediterranean and grown across Europe since Roman times. The aromatic oils sit in tiny surface glands on the leaves and peak just as the first flower buds open.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Start seeds indoors

4–6 weeks before last frost

Seed needs light. Press onto the surface or cover no more than ⅛ inch, and mist so the top half-inch never dries until sprouts show. Seedlings emerge in 10–15 days in warm soil.

Best soil temp 65–75 °F (18–24 °C) Minimum 55 °F (13 °C) Emerges in 10–15 days

Sow outside

After last frost

Sow seeds ⅛ inch (3 mm) deep.

Water and feed

All season

Water once a week in dry spells; let the surface dry between waterings. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.

One feeding at planting is enough for the season. What to use: a light scatter of compost; skip high-nitrogen fertilizer.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

Pinch the growing tips when plants reach 6 in to force side branches. Keep cutting stems back by a third to delay flowering and hold the plant bushy.

Harvest and store

55–70 days from sowing

It's ready when plants stand 6–8 in tall with plenty of side branches, before the small pale flowers open. Leaf oils are strongest at bud stage. Snip stems with scissors, taking no more than a third of the plant at a time and cutting just above a pair of leaves so new shoots break from that joint. Cut in the morning after dew dries.

Stand fresh stems in a glass of water on the counter for up to a week, or dry whole stems and strip the leaves into a jar.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Green Bean

Gardeners have long grown this herb along bean rows — its German name translates as bean herb — and it is said to keep bean beetles down. The pairing is safe either way, since the herb is shallow-rooted and takes little food or water from the beans.

Bush Bean

Old kitchen-garden charts keep this herb at the end of every bush bean row. No mechanism has been demonstrated, but the low, narrow plants slot into gaps between bean plants without shading or crowding them.

Walking Onion

Gardeners have long interplanted this herb among perennial onions. Both like lean, well-drained soil and full sun, so the pairing is easy to manage even though no pest effect has been shown.

Onion

Both want full sun, lean soil, and dry surfaces between waterings. The herb's fine roots stay in the top few inches and do not compete with developing bulbs, so it fills space at the row edge.

Sweet Alyssum

Once this herb is allowed to flower, its small blooms and alyssum's together feed hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps whose larvae hunt aphids on nearby crops. Leave a few plants unclipped for that purpose.

Lettuce

Lettuce roots shallowly and finishes fast, while this herb builds slowly through summer. Sown at the row edge, it fills the space lettuce vacates without ever fighting it for water.

Keep it away from

Fennel

Fennel roots release substances that reliably stunt most garden vegetables and herbs, and small seedlings suffer most. Give fennel its own corner well away from the herb bed — its flowers still earn their keep by feeding hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps.

Spearmint

Mint spreads by runners and will overrun a slower annual herb within one season. The problem is territory, not chemistry — keep mint in a buried pot or a separate container.

Zucchini

Squash leaves can span 2 ft and often bury a 12 in herb by midsummer, cutting its light and holding damp air around the stems. Plant this herb at least 3 ft clear of a squash hill.

See Summer Savory in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Family rest

Easy-going — Summer Savory can grow almost anywhere in the rotation without a strict rest.

Good next crops

The pea and bean family, the cabbage family or the tomato family thrive in this ground next season.

A light feeder that takes little from the bed and leaves no lasting residue, so it can follow almost anything. Wait one year before returning it to the same spot, then plant beans or peas, a cabbage-family crop, or tomatoes and peppers here next season.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Aphids

Sign
Clusters of small green or black insects on new tips; sticky leaves and curled shoot ends.
Fix
Knock them off with a hard spray of water, repeat every few days until the tips stay clean.

Spider mites

Sign
Fine pale stippling on leaves and faint webbing at stem joints during hot, dry weather.
Fix
Rinse the undersides of leaves with water twice a week and keep soil evenly moist during heat.

Slugs and snails

Sign
Ragged holes in seedling leaves and slime trails on soil, worst after rain.
Fix
Pull mulch back from young plants and set out bait or hand-pick after dark.

Diseases

Damping off

Sign
Seedlings topple with a pinched, water-soaked spot at the soil line, often in trays sown too thickly.
Prevent
Sow thinly in fresh mix, give air movement, and water from below so the surface dries between waterings.

Root and crown rot

Sign
Plants wilt on a cool day, lower stems darken, and roots pull up brown and soft.
Prevent
Plant in well-drained soil or a raised bed, and never leave pots standing in saucers of water.

Powdery mildew

Sign
Dusty white patches on upper leaves late in the season, mostly on crowded plants.
Prevent
Space plants 6 in apart, thin crowded stems, and water the soil rather than the foliage.
FAQ

Common questions about Summer Savory

When should I plant Summer Savory?
Spring: after the last frost, once soil holds 60 °F (16 °C). Spring: 4–6 weeks before last frost for an earlier first cutting.
How long until Summer Savory is ready to harvest?
55–70 days, counted from sowing. It's ready when plants stand 6–8 in tall with plenty of side branches, before the small pale flowers open. Leaf oils are strongest at bud stage.
Can I grow Summer Savory in a container?
Either works — a shallow-rooted herb happy in 8 in of well-drained soil. In containers: 1-gallon pot per plant, or three in a 12 in window box.
How often should I water Summer Savory?
Water once a week in dry spells; let the surface dry between waterings. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
How should I store Summer Savory after harvest?
Stand fresh stems in a glass of water on the counter for up to a week, or dry whole stems and strip the leaves into a jar.

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