Crop guide · The cabbage family

How to grow Turkish Rocket

A cold-hardy perennial brassica that produces abundant mustard-flavored leaves and edible flower shoots from early spring through summer with minimal care.

Bunias orientalis · also called warty cabbage, hill mustard

Full sun Beginner Frost-hardy
Sun
Full sun
Tolerates partial shade in afternoon once temperatures stay above 85 °F (29 °C)
Frost
Hardy
Survives hard frost and overwinters as a dormant crown
Spacing
18 in
45 cm between plants
Sow depth
¼ in
6 mm
To harvest
40–60 days
counted from sowing
Soil pH
6.0–7.5
slightly acidic to neutral
Timing

When to plant Turkish Rocket

Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.

Fall planting:6–8 weeks before first fall frost to allow establishment before winter.
Too late?Skip a spring sowing once daytime temperatures regularly exceed 80 °F (27 °C); sow in late summer for a fall harvest instead.
Background

Why grow Turkish Rocket

One of the earliest greens to emerge in spring, often weeks before other crops are ready. As a perennial, an established clump returns reliably each year, reducing replanting effort and providing harvests over a long season.

A little history. Native to western Asia and eastern Europe, naturalized across much of temperate Europe and North America. A tap-rooted perennial that can persist in the same spot for many years once established.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Sow outside

2–4 weeks before last frost

Sow seeds ¼ inch (6 mm) deep, and aim for 18 inches (45 cm) between plants once thinned. Sow 0.25 inches deep; keep the seedbed evenly moist until sprouts appear — seeds are slow to emerge if the surface dries out repeatedly. Seedlings emerge in 7–21 days.

Best soil temp 55–65 °F (13–18 °C) Minimum 45 °F (7 °C) Emerges in 7–21 days

Water and feed

All season

Water deeply once or twice a week during dry spells; established plants are drought-tolerant. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.

Top-dress (spread compost over the root zone and water in) once each spring as new growth emerges; no further feeding needed. What to use: 2–3 inches of well-rotted compost or a balanced organic granular fertilizer.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

Pinch or cut flower stems back to the base as soon as they appear if you want to extend the leaf harvest; allow a few stems to flower if you want to collect seed or feed pollinators.

Harvest and store

40–60 days from sowing

It's ready when harvest young leaves when they are 4–6 inches long and still tender; flower shoots are ready when buds are tight and green, before any yellow petals open. Cut individual outer leaves at the base with scissors or a sharp knife, leaving the growing center intact. Snap or cut flower shoots 4–6 inches below the bud cluster. Both regrow quickly.

Refrigerate unwashed leaves in a sealed bag with a damp paper towel for up to 5 days. Flower shoots keep 2–3 days refrigerated; use promptly.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Nasturtium

Aphids often settle on nasturtium stems in preference to nearby cabbage-family leaves, which can pull pressure off the rocket's tender new growth. It only helps if you pull or hose down the colonized nasturtium instead of letting it breed aphids all season.

Dill

Dill allowed to flower draws in hoverflies, lacewings, and tiny parasitic wasps that hunt aphids and cabbage white caterpillars, the two pests this crop sees most. Let a few heads open rather than cutting every stem for the kitchen.

Carrot

Gardeners have long paired carrots with mustard-family greens, though no mechanism has been demonstrated. Keep carrots at the bed's edge: this crop's deep taproot and wide leaves will shade and out-muscle them within a season or two.

Onion

The strong smell of onion foliage can help hide cabbage-family leaves from pests that locate hosts by scent, and trials show the effect is real but inconsistent. Treat it as a modest bonus under low pest pressure, not a substitute for row cover.

Keep it away from

Strawberry

Old companion charts keep strawberries and cabbage-family crops apart, though no mechanism has ever been shown. The practical objection is real enough: a permanent clump of this crop shades and crowds a strawberry patch that wants open sun.

See Turkish Rocket in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Rotation

A perennial — it holds its spot for years, so it sits outside the annual rotation.

This crop stays put — it is a perennial with a deep taproot, so there is no rotation gap to respect and no bed handed on each year. It feeds moderately and leaves little behind. Only when you finally dig the crown out does rotation matter: follow with peas or beans.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Cabbage white caterpillar

Sign
Ragged holes in leaves; pale green caterpillars visible on leaf undersides.
Fix
Hand-pick caterpillars; apply a biological spray containing Bacillus thuringiensis (a naturally occurring soil bacterium) to affected foliage.

Flea beetle

Sign
Numerous small round holes scattered across leaves, as if peppered with a pin; tiny dark beetles jump when disturbed.
Fix
Cover young plants with row cover (fine mesh fabric) immediately after sowing; remove once plants are well established and less vulnerable.

Aphid

Sign
Clusters of small soft-bodied insects on new growth and flower stems; leaves may curl or appear sticky.
Fix
Knock off with a firm jet of water; repeat daily for several days until populations collapse.

Diseases

Downy mildew

Sign
Yellow patches on upper leaf surfaces with a pale grey-purple fuzzy coating on the underside directly beneath.
Prevent
Space plants at the recommended distance to allow air to move freely; avoid overhead watering in the evening.

Clubroot

Sign
Plants wilt during the day even when soil is moist; roots pulled up show swollen, distorted, club-shaped growths.
Prevent
Test soil pH before planting and adjust toward neutral (6.5-7.0) if needed — the organism causing clubroot is far less active at near-neutral pH. Rotate brassicas on a minimum 4-year cycle.
FAQ

Common questions about Turkish Rocket

When should I plant Turkish Rocket?
Spring: 2–4 weeks before last frost, as soon as soil can be worked. Fall: 6–8 weeks before first fall frost to allow establishment before winter.
How long until Turkish Rocket is ready to harvest?
40–60 days, counted from sowing. It's ready when harvest young leaves when they are 4–6 inches long and still tender; flower shoots are ready when buds are tight and green, before any yellow petals open.
Can I grow Turkish Rocket in a container?
Beds strongly preferred — the deep taproot needs at least 12 inches of unobstructed soil depth and resents confinement. In containers: 15-gallon pot, minimum 14 inches deep — not ideal long-term.
How often should I water Turkish Rocket?
Water deeply once or twice a week during dry spells; established plants are drought-tolerant. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
How should I store Turkish Rocket after harvest?
Refrigerate unwashed leaves in a sealed bag with a damp paper towel for up to 5 days. Flower shoots keep 2–3 days refrigerated; use promptly.
Can Turkish Rocket stay in the ground over winter?
The taproot crown is fully dormant and hardy through winter in most temperate climates. Cut back dead top growth in late fall; mulch lightly in regions with repeated freeze-thaw cycles to protect the crown.

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