Crop guide · The nasturtium family

How to grow Mashua

A frost-tolerant Andean tuber with peppery, mustard-edged flavor that thrives in cool climates where most root crops struggle.

Tropaeolum tuberosum · also called añu, isaño

Full sun Intermediate Half-hardy
Sun
Full sun
Afternoon shade once temperatures regularly exceed 80 °F (27 °C)
Frost
Half-hardy
Tops are killed by hard frost below 28 °F (-2 °C), but tubers in the ground survive light frost
Spacing
18 in
45 cm between plants
Sow depth
4 in
102 mm
To harvest
180–210 days
counted from sowing
Soil pH
5.5–7.0
on the acidic side
Timing

When to plant Mashua

Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.

Summer:in mild-winter climates, plant tubers in early summer for a winter harvest.
Too late?Do not plant after late spring in short-season climates — tubers need shortening autumn days to initiate, and frost kills the tops before sizing if planted too late.
Background

Why grow Mashua

Mashua is one of the most productive tubers per square foot in cool, short-season gardens and requires almost no fertilizer. Its trailing stems also produce edible flowers, giving the bed ornamental value through the growing season.

A little history. Native to the Andes from Colombia to Bolivia, where it has been cultivated above 10,000 feet for at least 1,500 years according to archaeological records. Tubers contain glucosinolates — the same sulfur-based compounds found in mustard — which account for the sharp raw flavor and diminish substantially with cooking.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Sow outside

In mild-winter climates, plant tubers in early summer for a winter harvest

Sow seeds 4 inches (102 mm) deep, and aim for 18 inches (45 cm) between plants once thinned. Plant tubers 3–4 inches deep and keep soil evenly moist; shoots are slow to emerge — do not assume failure before 4 weeks. Seedlings emerge in 14–28 days.

Best soil temp 50–60 °F (10–16 °C) Minimum 45 °F (7 °C) Emerges in 14–28 days

Transplant outside

2–4 weeks before last frost

Beds strongly preferred — tubers spread widely and need 12 inches of loose soil depth; containers restrict yield significantly. In containers: 15-gallon pot minimum, at least 14 inches deep.

Water and feed

All season

Water deeply once or twice a week during active growth; reduce once tops begin to yellow in autumn. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.

Apply a single side-dress (scatter fertilizer along the row and water in) at planting; avoid heavy feeding mid-season. What to use: low-nitrogen compost or a 2–5-5 organic blend; excess nitrogen drives leaf growth at the expense of tubers.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

Pinch out the leading shoot tips once vines reach 18 inches to encourage branching and redirect energy toward tuber development; remove any flower stems if maximum tuber yield is the goal.

Harvest and store

180–210 days from sowing

It's ready when harvest after the first killing frost blackens the tops, or when foliage yellows and dies back naturally — tubers are at peak size and starch content at this point. Cut back dead tops to 2 inches, then loosen soil with a fork 8–10 inches out from the crown and lift carefully; tubers are brittle — work slowly to avoid snapping them.

Cure in a single layer in a cool, dry, airy space at 50–55 °F (10–13 °C) for 1 week, then store in slightly damp sand or paper bags at 40–50 °F (4–10 °C) for up to 4 months.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Nasturtium

Aphids often settle on nasturtium stems in preference to mashua shoot tips, which can pull colonies off the crop. Treat it as a sacrifice plant: cut off and bin loaded shoots rather than leaving them to breed more aphids.

Fava Bean

Fava beans bank nitrogen in root nodules that is mostly released the following season as the roots break down, so leave the stubble in place. Mashua is a light feeder and will not fight the beans for food in the meantime.

Spinach

Spinach feeds in the top few inches while mashua tubers form deeper, so the two rarely compete for water or food. The spinach is usually cut and cleared by early summer, well before the mashua vines run over the bed.

Cilantro

Let a few cilantro plants bolt (shift from leaf growth to flowering) and the flat flower heads draw in hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps whose larvae feed on aphids, the main pest of young mashua shoots.

Keep it away from

Potato

Both crops are hosts for late blight, and cool wet autumn weather is exactly when mashua is still in leaf. Growing them side by side lets spores move straight from one canopy to the other; keep them in separate parts of the garden.

Tomato

Tomatoes carry the same late blight that strips mashua foliage, and infected tomato vines left standing in late summer become a spore source right when mashua is sizing its tubers. Separate the two beds.

See Mashua in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Family rest

Easy-going — Mashua can grow almost anywhere in the rotation without a strict rest.

Good next crops

The pea and bean family, the cabbage family or the tomato family thrive in this ground next season.

Mashua is a light feeder and leaves the soil loose and in fair shape, but it gives little back, so work in compost after lifting. Wait at least 1 year before returning any nasturtium-family crop here. Legumes, brassicas, or nightshades follow well.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Andean weevil (related soil weevils in temperate gardens)

Sign
Irregular tunnels or small cavities inside harvested tubers; adult notching on leaf margins.
Fix
Rotate planting site annually and destroy any tunneled tubers; do not compost affected material.

Aphids

Sign
Clusters of small soft insects on new shoot tips and undersides of leaves; sticky residue on foliage.
Fix
Knock off with a firm water spray; apply insecticidal soap if colonies persist after two treatments.

Slugs

Sign
Ragged holes in leaves at or near soil level; silvery slime trails on soil surface overnight.
Fix
Set out iron phosphate bait around the base of plants at dusk; remove debris that provides daytime shelter.

Diseases

Late blight

Sign
Water-soaked dark lesions on leaves and stems that expand rapidly in cool, wet weather; white mold on leaf undersides.
Prevent
Space plants for airflow; avoid overhead watering; remove and bag affected foliage immediately; do not plant near potatoes or tomatoes.

Fusarium tuber rot

Sign
Sunken, dry, brown-to-black decay at the tuber surface or internally at harvest; white or pink mold in storage.
Prevent
Plant only firm, unblemished seed tubers; cure harvested tubers in a dry, airy spot for one week before storing; rotate the bed each year.
Good to know:Raw tubers have a sharp, peppery bite from glucosinolates and are best cooked; some individuals experience digestive discomfort from large quantities eaten raw.
FAQ

Common questions about Mashua

When should I plant Mashua?
Spring: 2–4 weeks before last frost, once soil reaches 45 °F (7 °C). Summer: in mild-winter climates, plant tubers in early summer for a winter harvest.
How long until Mashua is ready to harvest?
180–210 days, counted from sowing. It's ready when harvest after the first killing frost blackens the tops, or when foliage yellows and dies back naturally — tubers are at peak size and starch content at this point.
Can I grow Mashua in a container?
Beds strongly preferred — tubers spread widely and need 12 inches of loose soil depth; containers restrict yield significantly. In containers: 15-gallon pot minimum, at least 14 inches deep.
How often should I water Mashua?
Water deeply once or twice a week during active growth; reduce once tops begin to yellow in autumn. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
Is any part of Mashua unsafe to eat?
Raw tubers have a sharp, peppery bite from glucosinolates and are best cooked; some individuals experience digestive discomfort from large quantities eaten raw.
How should I store Mashua after harvest?
Cure in a single layer in a cool, dry, airy space at 50–55 °F (10–13 °C) for 1 week, then store in slightly damp sand or paper bags at 40–50 °F (4–10 °C) for up to 4 months.

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