Crop guide · The mint family

How to grow Lemon Balm

A hardy clumping perennial herb whose crinkled leaves give off a clean lemon scent when brushed, cut fresh all season for tea.

Melissa officinalis · also called Balm, Sweet Balm

Full sun Beginner Frost-hardy
Sun
Full sun
Afternoon shade once days stay above 85 °F (29 °C) keeps leaves from scorching and slows flowering
Frost
Hardy
Top growth is killed by hard frost, but the crown survives winter and resprouts from the base in spring.
Spacing
18 in
45 cm between plants
To harvest
60–80 days
counted from transplant
Timing

When to plant Lemon Balm

Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.

Fall planting:early fall, at least 6 weeks before first frost, from divisions.
Too late?Skip sowing after midsummer; plants set out later than 6 weeks before first frost rarely root deeply enough to overwinter.
Background

Why grow Lemon Balm

One plant supplies lemon-scented leaves from spring until frost with almost no care, and its summer flowers feed bees and the small predatory insects that patrol the rest of the garden.

A little history. A mint-family perennial from the eastern Mediterranean and western Asia. The scent sits in glands on the leaf surface and is strongest in young growth, fading as stems flower and turn woody.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Start seeds indoors

6–8 weeks before last frost

Press seed onto the surface and do not cover — it needs light. Mist daily so the top quarter-inch never dries. Seedlings emerge in 10–21 days in warm soil.

Best soil temp 65–75 °F (18–24 °C) Minimum 60 °F (16 °C) Emerges in 10–21 days

Sow outside

After last frost

Transplant outside

Early fall, at least 6 weeks before first frost, from divisions

Either — a pot keeps its heavy self-seeding in check. Needs about 10 in of soil depth. In containers: 3-gallon pot, at least 10 in deep. Space plants 18 inches (45 cm) apart.

Water and feed

All season

Water once a week in dry weather; established clumps take short dry spells. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry and leaves look dull. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.

Top-dress once in early spring as new shoots appear. What to use: 1 inch of compost, or a light 5–5-5; skip heavy nitrogen, which gives soft, weakly scented leaves.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

Shear the whole clump back by a third every 4–6 weeks and again as flower buds form. Cutting before bloom keeps leaves tender and cuts down on self-sown seedlings.

Harvest and store

60–80 days from transplant

It's ready when stems are 8–10 in tall with several pairs of full-sized leaves and no open flowers; leaves smell strongly of lemon when rubbed. Cut stems with shears in the morning, taking whole stems back to a leaf pair rather than stripping single leaves. Never remove more than a third of the clump at once.

Use fresh within 2–3 days; stand cut stems in water on the counter or bag loosely in the fridge. Dried leaf loses scent within a few months.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Zucchini

Lemon balm flowers steadily through midsummer and draws bees into the bed, which can help squash blossoms set fruit rather than shriveling. Keep the clump at the row end so vines do not smother it.

Cucumber

A flowering clump near a cucumber trellis brings bees within easy reach of the female flowers, which each need several visits to fill out properly instead of forming stubby fruit.

Cabbage

Many cabbage pests find their host by smell, and strongly aromatic mint-family herbs nearby can reduce the number that land under low pest pressure. Site the clump at the end of the row so it does not shade heads or steal water.

Apple

The small pale summer flowers feed hoverflies, lacewings and tiny parasitic wasps, the insects that work on aphids in the branches above. Plant it in the strip around the tree, outside the drip line, not tight against the trunk.

Keep it away from

Crosne

Crosne is dug over completely at harvest, and a permanent lemon balm clump beside it means roots and self-sown seedlings tangled in the trench. Keep lemon balm out of any bed you plan to fork through for tubers.

Peppermint

Peppermint travels by runners and will grow straight through a lemon balm crown in a season or two, leaving you unpicking two look-alike mint-family plants. Give each its own pot or a sunken bottomless bucket.

Fennel

Fennel roots release substances that reliably stunt most garden neighbours, lemon balm included, so keep several feet between them. Grown well apart its flat flower heads are still worth having, since they feed hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps.

See Lemon Balm in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Rotation

A perennial — it holds its spot for years, so it sits outside the annual rotation.

A perennial that stays put, so it sits outside the annual rotation entirely — give it a permanent corner or a pot rather than a bed you turn over. A moderate feeder that leaves no particular gift or gap behind; divide the clump every 3-4 years and replant into fresh compost.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Spider mites

Sign
Fine pale stippling on upper leaves, faint webbing underneath, worst on hot dry plants.
Fix
Spray the undersides hard with water twice a week, then water the plant deeply.

Aphids

Sign
Clusters of small green insects on new shoot tips, leaves curling and sticky.
Fix
Rinse tips off with water or pinch out the worst shoots; leave ladybugs alone.

Four-lined plant bug

Sign
Round sunken dark spots on upper leaves in early summer, sometimes mistaken for disease.
Fix
Cut off damaged shoots; the insect feeds only a few weeks and new growth comes clean.

Slugs

Sign
Ragged holes in low leaves on seedlings and spring regrowth, slime trails on soil.
Fix
Pull mulch back 2 in from the crown and set out iron phosphate bait or trap under boards.

Diseases

Powdery mildew

Sign
Dusty white film on leaf surfaces in late summer, worst in crowded shaded clumps with poor airflow.
Prevent
Thin crowded stems, shear after flowering, and water the soil rather than the leaves.

Septoria leaf spot

Sign
Small brown spots with dark edges on lower leaves that spread upward in wet spells.
Prevent
Remove spotted leaves, avoid overhead watering, and clear dead stems each winter.

Crown and root rot

Sign
Shoots collapse in wet weather and the crown is soft and brown when lifted.
Prevent
Plant in well-drained soil, raise the bed if it puddles, and keep winter mulch off the crown itself.
FAQ

Common questions about Lemon Balm

When should I plant Lemon Balm?
Spring: 6–8 weeks before last frost, on the surface of moist mix. Spring: after last frost, once soil holds 65 °F (18 °C).
How long until Lemon Balm is ready to harvest?
60–80 days, counted from transplant. It's ready when stems are 8–10 in tall with several pairs of full-sized leaves and no open flowers; leaves smell strongly of lemon when rubbed.
Can I grow Lemon Balm in a container?
Either — a pot keeps its heavy self-seeding in check. Needs about 10 in of soil depth. In containers: 3-gallon pot, at least 10 in deep.
How often should I water Lemon Balm?
Water once a week in dry weather; established clumps take short dry spells. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry and leaves look dull.
How should I store Lemon Balm after harvest?
Use fresh within 2–3 days; stand cut stems in water on the counter or bag loosely in the fridge. Dried leaf loses scent within a few months.
Can Lemon Balm stay in the ground over winter?
Cut stems to 2–3 in after frost blackens them. Mulch 2 in around, not over, the crown once the ground cools. Divide every 3–4 years to keep growth vigorous.

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