Transplant outside
2 weeks after last frost
Either works — needs 10 in of loose, fast-draining soil and no standing water. In containers: 3-gallon pot, at least 10 in deep, with open drainage holes. Space plants 18 inches (45 cm) apart.
Crop guide · The daisy and sunflower family
How to grow Tarragon
A slender perennial herb whose narrow leaves carry a warm anise note used in classic sauces, and it returns from the same crown for years.
Artemisia dracunculus · also called French tarragon, Russian tarragon
Full sun
Intermediate
Frost-hardy
Sun
Full sun
Light afternoon shade where summer days stay above 95 °F (35 °C)
Frost
Hardy
Top growth blackens with hard frost
Spacing
18 in
45 cm between plants
Sow depth
¼ in
6 mm
To harvest
60–90 days
counted from transplant
Timing
When to plant Tarragon
Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.
Last frost
Transplant outside
2 weeks after
Set out plants or divisions 2 weeks after last frost, once soil is workable.
First harvest
10–15 weeks after
60–90 days counted from transplant, so first pickings start around 10 weeks after the last frost.
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Weeks relative to last spring frost
Fall planting:6–8 weeks before first frost, so roots settle before cold.
Too late?Skip planting once nights drop near freezing — a fresh division has no time to root and will heave out over winter.
Background
Why grow Tarragon
Fresh tarragon is expensive and wilts within days, so a single established plant pays for itself. It asks for lean, well-drained soil and full sun and little else once rooted.
A little history. A daisy-family perennial from Eurasia. French tarragon almost never sets viable seed, so every true plant traces back to a division or cutting from another plant.
The season, step by step
From planting to harvest
Water and feed
All season
Water deeply once a week in warm weather; less in cool spells. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.
Once in early spring as new shoots appear; skip midsummer feeding. What to use: a thin ring of compost or a light 5–5-5; heavy nitrogen gives soft, weak-tasting growth.
Prune and maintain
As it grows
Pinch shoot tips through spring to force branching. Cut the whole plant back by a third in midsummer for a flush of tender leaves, and snip off any flower stems.
Harvest and store
60–90 days from transplant
It's ready when stems are 12 in tall with plenty of full-length leaves, roughly 8 weeks after planting. Flavor is strongest just before flower buds form. Snip whole stem tips 4–6 in long with scissors, cutting just above a leaf pair. Take no more than a third of the plant at once, and stop heavy cutting a month before first frost.
Stand cut stems in a glass of water on the counter for 2–3 days, or wrap in a barely damp towel in a bag in the refrigerator for up to a week.
Overwintering
Cut spent stems to 2 in after frost, then mulch 2 in over the crown once the ground chills. French tarragon needs a cold dormant rest to grow well the next year.
Companions
Good neighbours, bad neighbours
Plant it with
Artichoke
Gardeners have long tucked tarragon at the feet of artichokes, and the two do share a taste for sun and sharply drained ground. No mechanism has been demonstrated, so treat it as a space-sharing habit rather than pest protection.
Rosemary
Both want full sun, lean soil, and dry feet, so grouping them lets you water the whole patch sparingly without shortchanging anyone. Neighbours with matching needs are the simplest way to avoid overwatering a rot-prone herb.
Thyme
A low mat of thyme shades the soil surface between tarragon stems, holding moisture and crowding out weeds without competing for the same root zone. Keep it a few inches clear of the tarragon crown so the base stays dry.
Yarrow
Yarrow's flat flower heads feed hoverflies, lacewings, and tiny parasitic wasps, and those insects work the aphid colonies that build up on tarragon shoot tips in spring. Let a few heads open near the herb bed.
Sweet Alyssum
Alyssum's small open flowers are a reliable nectar source for hoverflies, whose larvae eat aphids. Sown along the edge of a dry herb bed it thrives in the same lean soil tarragon prefers.
Keep it away from
Peppermint
Mint runs underground and will thread through a tarragon crown within a season, making division impossible without tearing the clump apart. Grow mint in its own sunken pot or a separate bed.
Fennel
Fennel roots release compounds that stunt most garden vegetables and herbs, so keep it out of the herb bed. Planted well away, its flowers still earn their keep by feeding hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps.
Comfrey
Comfrey's broad leaves and heavy clump can shade out and out-drink a slim tarragon plant, and its damp, rich preferences pull the bed toward the moisture that rots tarragon crowns. Site it at least 3 ft away.
Crop rotation
After this crop
Rotation
A perennial — it holds its spot for years, so it sits outside the annual rotation.
A perennial that holds the same ground for years, so no rotation gap applies. It is a moderate feeder that leaves little behind; top-dress with compost each spring and lift and divide the clump every 3-4 years, replanting the youngest pieces in fresh soil.
Trouble to watch for
Pests and diseases
Pests
Aphids
Sign
Clusters of small green or black insects on new shoot tips; sticky leaves and curled growth.
Fix
Blast off with a hose, then spot-treat with insecticidal soap; avoid extra nitrogen.
Spider mites
Sign
Fine speckling and dull bronzing on leaves, faint webbing where leaf meets stem, worst in hot dry spells.
Fix
Rinse the underside of leaves every few days and keep the plant evenly watered.
Slugs and snails
Sign
Ragged holes in low shoots in spring, with slime trails on soil or mulch.
Fix
Pull mulch back a few inches from the crown and set iron phosphate bait or trap under boards.
Diseases
Root and crown rot
Sign
Shoots wilt and yellow in wet weather; the crown is brown and soft at soil level and pulls away easily.
Prevent
Plant in raised or gritty soil, water only when the top 2 inches dry, and keep mulch off the crown.
Powdery mildew
Sign
Dusty white patches on upper leaf surfaces in late summer, followed by yellowing and leaf drop.
Prevent
Space plants 18 in apart for airflow, thin crowded stems, and water at the soil rather than overhead.
Rust
Sign
Small rusty-orange or pale pustules on leaf undersides; leaves yellow and drop from the base upward.
Prevent
Strip and bin affected leaves, thin the clump, and cut all top growth down after frost.
Downy mildew
Sign
Angular yellow blotches on top of leaves with grey fuzz beneath during long cool, damp stretches.
Prevent
Improve drainage, avoid evening watering, and remove fallen leaf litter around the crown.
FAQ
Common questions about Tarragon
When should I plant Tarragon?
Spring: set out plants or divisions 2 weeks after last frost, once soil is workable. Fall: 6–8 weeks before first frost, so roots settle before cold.
How long until Tarragon is ready to harvest?
60–90 days, counted from transplant. It's ready when stems are 12 in tall with plenty of full-length leaves, roughly 8 weeks after planting. Flavor is strongest just before flower buds form.
Can I grow Tarragon in a container?
Either works — needs 10 in of loose, fast-draining soil and no standing water. In containers: 3-gallon pot, at least 10 in deep, with open drainage holes.
How often should I water Tarragon?
Water deeply once a week in warm weather; less in cool spells. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry.
How should I store Tarragon after harvest?
Stand cut stems in a glass of water on the counter for 2–3 days, or wrap in a barely damp towel in a bag in the refrigerator for up to a week.
Can Tarragon stay in the ground over winter?
Cut spent stems to 2 in after frost, then mulch 2 in over the crown once the ground chills. French tarragon needs a cold dormant rest to grow well the next year.
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