Crop guide · The mint family

How to grow rosemary

A woody, drought-tolerant Mediterranean herb that delivers needle-like aromatic leaves year-round in mild climates and thrives on neglect once established.

Salvia rosmarinus · also called Garden rosemary, Compass plant

Full sun Beginner Half-hardy
Sun
Full sun
Tolerates reflected heat well
Frost
Half-hardy
Tolerates light frost to about 20 °F (-7 °C) when established
Spacing
24 in
60 cm between plants
Sow depth
⅛ in
3 mm
To harvest
70–90 days
counted from transplant
Soil pH
6.0–7.0
slightly acidic to neutral
Timing

When to plant rosemary

Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.

Fall planting:6–8 weeks before first fall frost, to allow root establishment.
Too late?Do not transplant outdoors less than 6 weeks before first fall frost — roots will not establish before hard freezes arrive.
Background

Why grow rosemary

Rosemary produces a continuous harvest of intensely flavored leaves from a single long-lived plant that asks for little water and no coddling. In frost-free gardens it functions as a permanent low shrub, eliminating the need to replant each season.

A little history. Native to the rocky coastal hills of the Mediterranean basin, rosemary was reclassified from Rosmarinus officinalis into the genus Salvia following molecular phylogenetic work published in 2017. It is a woody perennial subshrub that can live a decade or more under suitable conditions.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Transplant outside

After last frost

Either works — needs at least 12 inches of well-drained soil depth; raised beds and containers with drainage holes are ideal. In containers: 5-gallon pot minimum; 10-gallon preferred for multi-year growth. Space plants 24 inches (60 cm) apart.

Water and feed

All season

Water deeply, then allow soil to dry almost completely before watering again — typically every 7–14 days once established. Water when the top 2 inches of soil are fully dry and leaves begin to look very slightly dull. Aim for about 1 inch per week in active growth; far less once established.

Once each spring as new growth begins; avoid feeding after midsummer. What to use: light application of balanced slow-release organic fertilizer or a thin layer of compost worked into the surface.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

After flowering, cut stems back by up to one-third to maintain a compact shape and encourage bushy new growth. Never cut back into bare, leafless old wood — it rarely regenerates from there.

Harvest and store

70–90 days from transplant

It's ready when harvest once stems are at least 8 inches long. Take tip growth with young, flexible stems — these carry the most flavor. The plant is ready to harvest lightly as soon as it is actively growing. Use clean, sharp scissors or pruners to cut stem tips 3–4 inches long, just above a leaf node (the point where leaves attach). Never remove more than one-third of the plant at a single harvest.

Fresh stems keep 1–2 weeks wrapped loosely in a damp paper towel in the refrigerator. Dry bunches upside-down in a warm, airy spot for 1–2 weeks; store dried leaves in an airtight jar away from light.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Sage

Both are woody Mediterranean subshrubs that want full sun, lean soil, and long dry spells between waterings, so one irrigation schedule suits both. Grouping them keeps thirsty vegetables from forcing water onto rosemary's roots.

Thyme

Thyme stays low and shallow-rooted while rosemary builds a tall woody frame, so they share a dry sunny bed without crowding. Both tolerate the same sparse feeding and sharp drainage.

Lavender

Lavender asks for the same full sun, gritty soil, and infrequent deep watering, and its flowers extend the bloom season that draws bees to the bed. Space plants 24 inches apart so air moves freely between them.

The Cabbage Family

Rosemary's resinous scent can make it harder for cabbage moths and cabbage root flies to locate broccoli, kale, and cabbage by smell, though the effect is modest under heavy pest pressure. Keep rosemary at the bed edge, since cabbages want far more water.

Green Bean

Gardeners have long set rosemary near bean rows, saying its strong scent throws bean beetles off the trail. Treat it as an old pairing rather than a proven one, and plant rosemary at the row's end so bean watering does not soak its roots.

Keep it away from

Spearmint

Spearmint runs underground and will overrun the base of a rosemary shrub within a season, trapping moisture against the woody crown. Grow mint in a sunken pot or a separate container well away from the rosemary bed.

Basil

Basil wants rich soil and steady moisture, while rosemary declines in wet, well-fed ground. Sharing a pot usually means one of them is watered wrong, and rosemary is the one that rots. Grow them in separate containers.

See rosemary in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Rotation

A perennial — it holds its spot for years, so it sits outside the annual rotation.

Rosemary is a permanent planting, so it sits outside the rotation and needs no family gap. It is a moderate feeder that leaves behind a woody root mass; if you ever pull it, loosen the soil, add compost, and follow with any annual crop you like.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Spittlebug

Sign
Frothy white foam masses clinging to stems in late spring and early summer, hiding a small pale insect inside.
Fix
Blast foam and insects off with a firm jet of water; repeat every few days until gone.

Aphids

Sign
Clusters of small soft-bodied insects on new shoot tips, often accompanied by sticky residue on leaves below.
Fix
Knock off with a strong water spray or apply insecticidal soap directly to the colonies.

Spider mites

Sign
Fine stippling on leaves, tiny webbing on undersides, most common in hot dry conditions or on indoor-overwintered plants.
Fix
Increase humidity around the plant, spray undersides of leaves with water, and apply insecticidal soap if infestation persists.

Diseases

Root rot

Sign
Sudden wilting despite moist soil, brown mushy roots when unpotted, yellowing lower leaves, and a general decline that does not respond to watering.
Prevent
Plant in sharply drained soil or a gritty potting mix; never let roots sit in standing water; avoid overwatering.

Powdery mildew

Sign
White powdery coating on leaf surfaces and stems, most common in humid conditions with poor air circulation.
Prevent
Space plants at least 24 inches apart, avoid overhead watering, and site in full sun with good airflow.

Botrytis (gray mold)

Sign
Fuzzy gray-brown mold on stems or leaves, typically starting where dead plant material has accumulated.
Prevent
Remove dead stems and spent flowers promptly; improve air circulation; avoid wetting foliage when watering.
FAQ

Common questions about rosemary

When should I plant rosemary?
Spring: after last frost, once soil has warmed above 50 °F (10 °C). Fall: 6–8 weeks before first fall frost, to allow root establishment.
How long until rosemary is ready to harvest?
70–90 days, counted from transplant. It's ready when harvest once stems are at least 8 inches long. Take tip growth with young, flexible stems — these carry the most flavor. The plant is ready to harvest lightly as soon as it is actively growing.
Can I grow rosemary in a container?
Either works — needs at least 12 inches of well-drained soil depth; raised beds and containers with drainage holes are ideal. In containers: 5-gallon pot minimum; 10-gallon preferred for multi-year growth.
How often should I water rosemary?
Water deeply, then allow soil to dry almost completely before watering again — typically every 7–14 days once established. Water when the top 2 inches of soil are fully dry and leaves begin to look very slightly dull.
How should I store rosemary after harvest?
Fresh stems keep 1–2 weeks wrapped loosely in a damp paper towel in the refrigerator. Dry bunches upside-down in a warm, airy spot for 1–2 weeks; store dried leaves in an airtight jar away from light.
Can rosemary stay in the ground over winter?
In climates with frost, mulch the root zone with 3–4 inches of straw after the first frost. In pots, move containers to an unheated but frost-free garage or shed. Resume normal care when new growth appears in spring.

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