Transplant outside
Either — a permanent sunny spot with sharp drainage, or a big pot that can be moved into shelter for winter. In containers: 15–20 gallon pot, at least 18 in deep. Space plants 120 inches (305 cm) apart.
A fast-growing Mediterranean tree that ripens soft, sweet fruit without any pollination, and takes to a large container where winters are cold.
Ficus carica · also called Common fig, Edible fig
After the last hard frost, once soil is workable and nights hold near 45 °F (7 °C).
Early fall in mild-winter areas, at least 8 weeks before first frost.
Ripe figs are too soft to ship, so home-grown fruit is a different food from the store version. An established bush can carry two crops in a season and shrugs off heat, lean soil, and dry spells.
A little history. A fig is not a true fruit but a hollow, fleshy stem enclosing hundreds of tiny flowers on its inner wall; garden varieties fill out and sweeten with no pollination at all.
Either — a permanent sunny spot with sharp drainage, or a big pot that can be moved into shelter for winter. In containers: 15–20 gallon pot, at least 18 in deep. Space plants 120 inches (305 cm) apart.
Deep soak once a week while fruit is sizing; containers often need water daily in heat. Water when leaves droop at midday and the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.
Once in early spring; stop feeding by midsummer. What to use: compost over the root zone, or 5–5-5 organic at about ½ cup per foot of trunk height.
Prune in late winter while dormant: remove dead wood, crossing branches, and root suckers. Fruit forms on new shoots and on last year's wood, so avoid shearing the whole plant back.
It's ready when fruit hangs down instead of sticking out, the neck softens and wrinkles, skin color dulls, and a bead of nectar may show at the eye. Pick only fully soft fruit — figs do not ripen after picking. Lift and twist gently, or snip the short stem. Wear long sleeves and gloves; the milky sap from stems and leaves irritates skin.
Eat within 2 days at room temperature, or hold 3–5 days in a single layer in the refrigerator. Do not wash until you use them.
Where lows pass 15 °F (-9 °C), mound mulch over the roots, bundle and wrap the trunks, or move containers to an unheated garage after leaf drop and water lightly once a month.
Sweet Alyssum
A low skirt of alyssum flowers at the drip line feeds hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps, which often reduce the aphid and soft scale colonies that build up on young fig shoots. Keep it beyond the mulch ring so the trunk stays dry.
Yarrow
Yarrow's flat flower heads are easy landing pads for lacewings, ladybugs, and small parasitic wasps that hunt scale and aphids. It also tolerates the same dry, unfertilized ground a fig prefers, so it needs no extra watering.
White Clover
A clipped clover cover under the canopy shades the soil, holds moisture, and crowds out weeds that would otherwise be hoed near shallow fig roots. As its roots break down it also banks nitrogen for later seasons. Keep it 12 in clear of the trunk.
Rosemary
Rosemary blooms very early and its nectar can help hold hoverflies and small wasps nearby before pests build up. It also thrives on the same lean, sharply drained, infrequently watered ground, so it competes little with a fig.
Fennel
Fennel's roots release compounds that reliably stunt most garden plants, and it seeds itself freely into an unhoed fig root zone. Grow it well away in its own corner, where its flowers still earn their keep feeding hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps.
Spearmint
Mint spreads by runners and will fill the entire mulched root zone within a season or two, so weeding and harvest mean disturbing shallow fig roots. If you want mint nearby, sink it in a buried bottomless pot or keep it in a separate container.
Fig roots run wide and shallow and will colonize a well-watered, well-fed bed, out-competing salad and root crops. The steady moisture also pushes leafy growth and can split ripening fruit. Keep vegetable beds outside the canopy edge.
A perennial — it holds its spot for years, so it sits outside the annual rotation.
A permanent perennial — site it once, in full sun with drainage, because moving an established plant sets it back years. No rotation gap applies before or after it, and no family needs to be kept out of the ground it occupied. Keep annual beds outside the root zone.