Crop guide · The grass family

How to grow oats

A cool-season grain that doubles as a fast-growing cover crop, smothering weeds and building soil organic matter in a single season.

Avena sativa · also called common oats, hulled oats

Full sun Beginner Frost-hardy
Sun
Full sun
Oats perform poorly where summer temperatures stay above 85 °F (29 °C)
Frost
Hardy
Tolerates hard spring frosts once established
Spacing
1 in
3 cm between plants
Sow depth
1½ in
38 mm
To harvest
70–100 days
counted from sowing
Soil pH
5.5–7.0
on the acidic side
Timing

When to plant oats

Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.

Fall planting:6–8 weeks before first fall frost for cover-crop use.
Too late?Skip a spring sowing once daytime temperatures regularly exceed 80 °F (27 °C) — heat during grain fill causes shriveled kernels; sow in fall for cover-crop use instead.
Background

Why grow oats

Oats establish quickly in cool, moist conditions, suppressing weeds through dense canopy closure. Grown to grain, they yield a storable whole food; grown as a cover crop, they winter-kill cleanly in cold climates, leaving a ready-to-plant bed in spring.

A little history. Avena sativa is an annual grass domesticated from wild oat relatives, likely in southwest Asia and Europe. Each seed head is a loose, open panicle (a branched flower cluster) rather than the tight spike seen in wheat or barley.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Sow outside

4–6 weeks before last frost

Sow seeds 1½ inches (38 mm) deep, and aim for 1 inches (3 cm) between plants once thinned. Rake seed in to 1–2 inches and firm the soil; keep the seedbed moist until shoots emerge — oats will not germinate in dry, loose soil. Seedlings emerge in 5–10 days.

Best soil temp 55–75 °F (13–24 °C) Minimum 35 °F (2 °C) Emerges in 5–10 days

Water and feed

All season

Water at sowing, then as needed during dry spells; established plants are relatively drought-tolerant. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry and leaf tips begin to curl slightly. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.

Side-dress (scatter fertilizer along the row and water in) once at tillering, when plants produce multiple shoots at the base. What to use: balanced compost or a low-rate nitrogen source such as blood meal; avoid heavy nitrogen, which promotes lodging (stalks falling over).

Harvest and store

70–100 days from sowing

It's ready when seed heads turn golden-yellow and the grain feels firm and doughy when pressed between fingernails; most of the straw has dried to tan. Cut stalks at the base with shears or a sickle when 90% of the panicles are golden. Bundle loosely and hang upside down in a dry, ventilated space for 1–2 weeks before threshing.

Thresh and winnow to remove hulls and chaff; store dry grain in sealed containers at below 50 °F (10 °C) and below 12% moisture; use within 12 months for best quality.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Field Pea

Oat stems hold up the climbing pea vines, keeping pods and foliage off wet soil in a mixed sowing. The peas bank nitrogen in their roots, which mostly feeds the following season's crop once the residue breaks down.

Crimson Clover

Sown with oats as a cover mix, crimson clover banks nitrogen in its roots while the oats hold soil and smother weeds. That nitrogen is released mostly for next season, as the roots and residue decay in the bed.

Hairy Vetch

A standard cover-crop pairing: the oats give the sprawling vetch something to climb, and the vetch banks nitrogen that becomes available to next season's planting as its roots break down.

Phacelia

Phacelia's coiled flower clusters draw in hoverflies, lacewings, and tiny parasitic wasps, whose larvae work through aphid colonies on nearby oat stems and seed heads. It also fills gaps in a thin oat stand.

Keep it away from

Wheat

Wheat and oats are both grasses and share rusts, powdery mildew, and smuts, so planting them side by side stacks the risk and gives spores a short hop between hosts. Keep grains in separate beds and separate years.

Barley

Barley hosts the same leaf diseases and cereal aphids as oats, and the two mature at similar times, so problems build across the whole planting rather than staying in one row.

Rye

Rye carries the same grass-family rusts and smuts as oats, and its vigorous stand also out-muscles oat seedlings for light and moisture. Grow it in its own bed on a separate rotation slot.

Einkorn

Oats host the same aphids and leaf diseases as einkorn and volunteer readily, so a neighbouring stand keeps carryover pests and spores in the bed year to year. Keep the two in separate plots and separate rotations.

See oats in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Family rest

Give grasses and grains 2 years away from this spot before any of its relatives return.

Good next crops

The pea and bean family, the squash family or the tomato family thrive in this ground next season.

Oats are a heavy feeder that gives back plenty of straw and root biomass — leave the residue to break down and it lifts organic matter noticeably. Keep other grasses and grains out of this bed for 2 years, then follow with legumes, squash-family crops, or tomato-family crops.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Aphids

Sign
Clusters of small soft-bodied insects on stems and developing seed heads; sticky residue on leaves.
Fix
Knock off with a firm water spray; introduce or conserve ladybugs and parasitic wasps by avoiding broad-spectrum sprays.

Armyworms

Sign
Ragged, chewed leaves and stems; caterpillars visible at the base of plants in early morning.
Fix
Hand-pick caterpillars; apply spinosad-based spray to the base of plants in the evening when larvae are active.

Wireworms

Sign
Poor germination or seedlings that wilt and die; thin, hard, orange-brown larvae found in the soil near roots.
Fix
Avoid planting oats in beds that followed sod or grass for at least one season; improve drainage to reduce larval survival.

Diseases

Crown rust

Sign
Small orange-red pustules on leaf surfaces and sheaths, often appearing in warm, humid weather.
Prevent
Choose rust-resistant varieties; space plants to allow airflow; avoid overhead watering in the evening.

Powdery mildew

Sign
White, powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces, most common in humid conditions with poor air circulation.
Prevent
Thin stands to recommended spacing; orient rows to catch prevailing breezes; remove and dispose of heavily infected material.

Smut (loose smut)

Sign
Seed heads replaced entirely by a mass of dark, powdery spores instead of grain.
Prevent
Source certified, treated seed; do not save seed from infected plants; rotate away from small grains for at least 2 years.
FAQ

Common questions about oats

When should I plant oats?
Spring: as soon as soil can be worked, 4–6 weeks before last frost. Fall: 6–8 weeks before first fall frost for cover-crop use.
How long until oats are ready to harvest?
70–100 days, counted from sowing. It's ready when seed heads turn golden-yellow and the grain feels firm and doughy when pressed between fingernails; most of the straw has dried to tan.
Can I grow oats in a container?
Best in open beds or dedicated grain rows; containers are impractical for grain harvest but a deep trough works for cover-crop trials.
How often should I water oats?
Water at sowing, then as needed during dry spells; established plants are relatively drought-tolerant. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry and leaf tips begin to curl slightly.
How should I store oats after harvest?
Thresh and winnow to remove hulls and chaff; store dry grain in sealed containers at below 50 °F (10 °C) and below 12% moisture; use within 12 months for best quality.

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