Crop guide · The grass family

How to grow barley

A fast-maturing cool-season grain that doubles as a cover crop and can be harvested for whole grain, sprouts, or homegrown malt.

Hordeum vulgare · also called hulled barley, hull-less barley

Full sun Intermediate Frost-hardy
Sun
Full sun
Not suitable for regions where summer temps exceed 90 °F (32 °C) during grain fill
Frost
Hardy
Spring-sown seedlings tolerate light frost down to about 28 °F (-2 °C). Overwintering types survive hard freezes once established and tillered.
Spacing
3 in
8 cm between plants
Sow depth
1¼ in
32 mm
To harvest
60–90 days
counted from sowing
Soil pH
6.0–7.5
slightly acidic to neutral
Timing

When to plant barley

Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.

Fall planting:6–8 weeks before first hard frost, for overwintering types.
Too late?Skip spring sowing once daytime temps regularly exceed 75 °F (24 °C) — heat during grain fill shrivels kernels; switch to a fall sowing instead.
Background

Why grow barley

Barley matures faster than wheat and tolerates drier soils, making it one of the most practical grains for a small plot. Hull-less varieties thresh clean by hand, removing the main barrier to home processing.

A little history. One of the earliest domesticated cereals, with archaeological evidence of cultivation in the Fertile Crescent dating to roughly 10,000 years ago per standard archaeobotanical records. Produces a spike (the seed head) with either two or six rows of kernels arranged along a central axis.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Sow outside

4–6 weeks before last frost

Sow seeds 1¼ inches (32 mm) deep, and aim for 3 inches (8 cm) between plants once thinned. Cover seed with 1–1.5 inches of firm soil and keep evenly moist until shoots emerge; do not let the seedbed crust over. Seedlings emerge in 4–10 days.

Best soil temp 50–65 °F (10–18 °C) Minimum 40 °F (4 °C) Emerges in 4–10 days

Water and feed

All season

Water deeply once or twice a week during establishment and heading; reduce once seed heads begin to dry down. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.

Side-dress (scatter fertilizer along the row and water in) once at tillering, roughly 3–4 weeks after emergence. What to use: balanced organic fertilizer or compost; avoid high nitrogen after tillering, which promotes lodging (stalks falling over).

Harvest and store

60–90 days from sowing

It's ready when seed heads have turned golden-tan and feel firm and dry; the straw is stiff and straw-colored; kernels dent with a fingernail but do not crush easily. Cut stalks at the base with shears or a sickle when 90% of the heads are fully golden. Bundle into sheaves and hang upside down in a dry, ventilated space for 1–2 weeks before threshing.

Thresh and winnow to remove chaff; dry grain to below 13% moisture (kernels feel hard and click when dropped on a hard surface); store in sealed containers in a cool, dry place for up to 1 year.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Field Pea

Field peas bank nitrogen in their roots, and as those roots break down after the mixed stand is cut the nitrogen is released for the following season's crop. Sown together, the barley stalks also give the pea vines something to lean on.

Hairy Vetch

Hairy vetch is a standard overwintering partner for fall-sown barley: it fixes nitrogen that is released as the residue breaks down, feeding next season's bed rather than the barley itself, while the barley holds the vine upright over winter.

White Clover

Undersown white clover forms a low mat that shades the soil, holds moisture, and crowds out weeds between barley rows. It can also leave nitrogen behind for the next season once turned in, though it needs mowing if it starts to climb into the grain.

Keep it away from

Wheat

Wheat carries the same powdery mildew, smuts, and aphid-spread viruses as barley, so growing them side by side stacks the risk and gives spores a short hop between stands. Keep small grains apart and rotate the bed away from grasses for 2 years.

Oats

Oats host many of the same leaf diseases and the aphids that spread grain viruses. Planted next to barley they extend the green bridge that carries those problems from one small grain to the next.

Rye

Rye shares barley's disease list and is a vigorous grass that also out-competes it for water and light in a mixed stand. Give each small grain its own bed and its own year.

Oregon Grape

Barley is hit by the same stem rust that overwinters on barberry-family shrubs, so a nearby Oregon grape gives the fungus the bridge it needs between seasons. Plant grain plots well clear of the shrub.

Emmer

Both are grasses that carry rusts, powdery mildew, and grain aphids, so planting them side by side lets problems bounce between the two stands. Grow one grain per bed and rotate out of grasses for two years.

Einkorn

Barley and einkorn share rusts, powdery mildew, and the aphids that carry barley yellow dwarf. Growing them side by side gives spores and aphids a short hop between stands and stacks the risk on both.

Spelt

Barley hosts the same rusts, powdery mildew, and aphids that trouble spelt, so side-by-side rows let problems build in both. Grow other grains in a separate bed and respect the two-year gap between grass-family crops.

See barley in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Family rest

Give grasses and grains 2 years away from this spot before any of its relatives return.

Good next crops

The pea and bean family, the squash family or the tomato family thrive in this ground next season.

Barley is a heavy feeder that leaves behind fine straw and a dense mat of fibrous roots — good for soil structure, but it takes nitrogen with it. Keep grasses and grains out of this bed for 2 years, then follow with legumes to rebuild fertility, or with squash-family or tomato-family crops fed with compost.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Aphids (grain aphids)

Sign
Dense clusters of small soft-bodied insects on upper stems and developing seed heads; sticky residue on leaves.
Fix
Knock off with a firm water spray; introduce or conserve ladybugs and parasitic wasps; use insecticidal soap only if colonies persist.

Wireworms

Sign
Patchy germination failure; thin, hard, yellowish larvae found in soil near ungerminated or rotting seeds.
Fix
Avoid planting after sod; till the bed in fall to expose larvae to birds and frost; delay sowing until soil warms above 50F.

Hessian fly

Sign
Stunted, dark-green tillers (side shoots from the base); small brown pupae cases visible at the base of affected stems.
Fix
Use fly-free planting dates recommended by your local extension service; destroy infested plant debris promptly.

Diseases

Powdery mildew

Sign
White to gray powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces, starting on lower leaves and spreading upward in humid conditions.
Prevent
Improve air circulation with correct spacing; avoid overhead watering late in the day; choose resistant varieties where available.

Loose smut

Sign
Entire seed head replaced by a mass of dark, powdery spores that blow away, leaving a bare spike.
Prevent
Source certified disease-free seed; do not save seed from infected plants; rotate away from small grains for at least 2 years.

Scald (leaf scald)

Sign
Water-soaked blotches on leaves that dry to pale tan with a dark brown border, often starting on lower leaves.
Prevent
Avoid dense planting; remove and dispose of infected debris; choose scald-tolerant varieties for humid climates.

Stripe mosaic (barley yellow stripe mosaic)

Sign
Yellow or pale green stripes running lengthwise along leaves; plants may be stunted and produce poorly filled heads.
Prevent
Use certified virus-free seed; control aphids that spread the virus; remove and destroy symptomatic plants promptly.
FAQ

Common questions about barley

When should I plant barley?
Spring: as soon as soil can be worked, 4–6 weeks before last frost. Fall: 6–8 weeks before first hard frost, for overwintering types.
How long until barley is ready to harvest?
60–90 days, counted from sowing. It's ready when seed heads have turned golden-tan and feel firm and dry; the straw is stiff and straw-colored; kernels dent with a fingernail but do not crush easily.
Can I grow barley in a container?
Best in a raised bed or open ground; containers are impractical for meaningful yield but feasible for sprouts or ornamental use. In containers: 12-inch wide, 8-inch deep trough for sprout production only.
How often should I water barley?
Water deeply once or twice a week during establishment and heading; reduce once seed heads begin to dry down. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
How should I store barley after harvest?
Thresh and winnow to remove chaff; dry grain to below 13% moisture (kernels feel hard and click when dropped on a hard surface); store in sealed containers in a cool, dry place for up to 1 year.
Can barley stay in the ground over winter?
Winter barley types are sown in fall, establish a rosette of tillers before cold sets in, go dormant under frost, and resume growth in early spring to mature 2–4 weeks ahead of spring-sown crops.

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