Crop guide · The goosefoot family (spinach and beet relatives)

How to grow Good King Henry

A perennial leafy green that returns each spring and yields edible shoots, leaves, and flower spikes across a long season with minimal fuss.

Blitum bonus-henricus · also called poor man's asparagus, mercury goosefoot

Partial sun Intermediate Frost-hardy
Sun
Partial sun
Provide afternoon shade once temperatures regularly exceed 80 °F (27 °C)
Frost
Hardy
Established crowns survive hard frost and re-sprout reliably in spring
Spacing
18 in
45 cm between plants
Sow depth
¼ in
6 mm
To harvest
365–395 days
counted from transplant
Soil pH
6.0–7.0
slightly acidic to neutral
Timing

When to plant Good King Henry

Spring
Start indoors

8–10 weeks before last frost; seeds need a cold, moist period of 4 weeks to break dormancy.

Fall
Direct sow

6–8 weeks before first fall frost to allow natural cold stratification over winter.

Too late?Do not start seed indoors after the last frost has passed — without a cold stratification period the germination rate drops sharply; wait for fall sowing instead.
Background

Why grow Good King Henry

Once established, a single planting produces harvests for a decade or more with little intervention. The young shoots are used like asparagus and the leaves like spinach, giving two distinct crops from one plant.

A little history. Native to central and southern Europe; naturalized widely in Britain and North America. A perennial member of the goosefoot family, it was cultivated as a pot herb across Europe from at least the medieval period, documented in herbals from the 16th century onward.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Start seeds indoors

8–10 weeks before last frost

Sow shallowly; seeds need light to germinate. Keep the top quarter-inch moist but not waterlogged. Expect slow, uneven emergence. Seedlings emerge in 14–30 days in warm soil.

Best soil temp 55–65 °F (13–18 °C) Minimum 50 °F (10 °C) Emerges in 14–30 days

Sow outside

6-8 weeks before first fall frost to allow natural cold stratification over winter

Sow seeds ¼ inch (6 mm) deep.

Water and feed

All season

Water deeply once or twice a week during dry spells; established plants are drought-tolerant but produce better with consistent moisture. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.

Side-dress (scatter fertilizer along the row and water in) once in early spring as shoots emerge, and again after the main leaf harvest. What to use: well-rotted compost or a balanced organic fertilizer; this is a leafy crop and benefits from moderate nitrogen.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

Pinch out flower spikes promptly once you have harvested the tender young ones as a vegetable; allowing the plant to set seed exhausts the crown and reduces leaf yield the following year.

Harvest and store

365–395 days from transplant

It's ready when harvest young shoots in the second year onward when they are 4–6 inches tall and still tightly furled, before leaves fully open. Leaves are ready once they reach 2–3 inches across but before they toughen. Snap or cut shoots cleanly at the base with scissors or a sharp knife. Pick individual leaves from the outside of the plant inward. Never remove more than one-third of the plant's foliage at any one harvest.

Use fresh within 2 days; store loosely wrapped in a damp cloth in the refrigerator. Leaves wilt quickly — harvest just before use when possible.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Spearmint

The strong scent of mint can help hide this crop's leaves from aphids and leaf miners that locate hosts by smell. Sink the mint in a bottomless pot or a separate container alongside the bed, since its runners will otherwise overrun a permanent planting.

Chives

Chive foliage carries a sharp onion smell that often reduces aphid landings on nearby leafy greens under low pest pressure. Being perennial itself, it can hold a permanent edge to the bed without needing yearly replanting.

Strawberry

Strawberries feed in the top few inches while this crop draws from a deep taproot, so the two rarely fight over water or food. The strawberry mat also shades the soil surface around the crown and keeps weeds down between spring shoot harvests.

Comfrey

Comfrey's long flowering season draws in hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps whose larvae work through aphid colonies. Set it three feet or more away — its taproot is a strong competitor — and cut the leaves two or three times a season to lay around the crown as mulch.

Keep it away from

Spinach

Both belong to the goosefoot family and host the same downy mildew and the same leaf-mining flies. A permanent crown grown beside annual spinach carries those problems from one season into the next instead of breaking the cycle.

Beet

Beet and chard share this crop's family, its leaf miner, and its leaf spot and mildew problems. Keep beet rows well away from the perennial bed so the standing crown does not act as a year-round reservoir for those pests and diseases.

See Good King Henry in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Rotation

A perennial — it holds its spot for years, so it sits outside the annual rotation.

This is a permanent planting, not part of an annual rotation — leave the crown undisturbed and there is no family gap to count. It feeds moderately and gives little back, so top the bed with compost each autumn. If you ever lift and retire it, sow peas or beans in the vacated ground.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Leaf miners

Sign
Pale, winding tunnels traced through the leaf surface; the leaf tissue between the upper and lower skin is eaten away.
Fix
Remove and bin affected leaves immediately; do not compost them. Covering plants with fine insect mesh before adults appear prevents egg-laying.

Aphids

Sign
Clusters of small soft-bodied insects on new growth and the undersides of young leaves; sticky residue and distorted shoot tips.
Fix
Knock off with a firm jet of water; repeat every few days. Encourage ground beetles and ladybirds by keeping mulch around the base.

Slugs and snails

Sign
Ragged holes in leaves, especially on young plants; silvery slime trails on soil and foliage.
Fix
Apply a 2-inch ring of sharp grit around each crown; hand-pick at dusk. Seedlings are most vulnerable — protect them until well established.

Diseases

Downy mildew

Sign
Yellow patches on the upper leaf surface with a pale grey-purple fuzzy coating on the underside; leaves collapse in humid conditions.
Prevent
Space plants at the full 18 inches to allow airflow; avoid overhead watering in the evening. Remove affected leaves promptly.

Crown rot

Sign
Soft, dark, water-soaked tissue at the base of the plant; shoots fail to emerge in spring or collapse shortly after.
Prevent
Plant in well-drained soil; do not mulch directly against the crown. Avoid overwatering in autumn as the plant goes dormant.
Good to know:Leaves contain oxalic acid at moderate levels — blanch before eating in quantity and avoid feeding raw leaves to young children or anyone with kidney stones. Do not confuse with the unrelated and toxic herb mercury (Mercurialis perennis), which has opposite leaves and a different growth habit.
FAQ

Common questions about Good King Henry

When should I plant Good King Henry?
Spring: 8–10 weeks before last frost; seeds need a cold, moist period of 4 weeks to break dormancy. Fall: 6–8 weeks before first fall frost to allow natural cold stratification over winter.
How long until Good King Henry is ready to harvest?
365–395 days, counted from transplant. It's ready when harvest young shoots in the second year onward when they are 4–6 inches tall and still tightly furled, before leaves fully open. Leaves are ready once they reach 2–3 inches across but before they toughen.
Can I grow Good King Henry in a container?
Beds strongly preferred — the deep taproot needs at least 12 inches of uncompacted soil and resents disturbance once established.
How often should I water Good King Henry?
Water deeply once or twice a week during dry spells; established plants are drought-tolerant but produce better with consistent moisture. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
Is any part of Good King Henry unsafe to eat?
Leaves contain oxalic acid at moderate levels — blanch before eating in quantity and avoid feeding raw leaves to young children or anyone with kidney stones. Do not confuse with the unrelated and toxic herb mercury (Mercurialis perennis), which has opposite leaves and a different growth habit.
How should I store Good King Henry after harvest?
Use fresh within 2 days; store loosely wrapped in a damp cloth in the refrigerator. Leaves wilt quickly — harvest just before use when possible.

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