Crop guide · The asparagus family

How to grow Solomon's Seal

An elegant native woodland perennial whose young shoots are harvested like asparagus and whose starchy rhizomes have a long history of edible use in eastern North America.

Polygonatum biflorum · also called King Solomon's Seal, Smooth Solomon's Seal

Partial shade Beginner Frost-hardy
Sun
Partial shade
Deep shade is preferable once summer temperatures regularly exceed 85 °F (29 °C)
Frost
Hardy
Fully hardy
Spacing
18 in
45 cm between plants
Sow depth
2 in
51 mm
To harvest
730–1095 days
counted from transplant
Soil pH
5.5–7.0
on the acidic side
Timing

When to plant Solomon's Seal

Spring
Transplant

As soon as soil can be worked, 4–6 weeks before last frost.

Fall
Transplant

6–8 weeks before first hard frost, while soil is still workable.

Too late?Do not transplant rhizomes once shoots have fully leafed out in spring — wait until fall dormancy instead.
Background

Why grow Solomon's Seal

Solomon's Seal fills a shaded bed that defeats most food crops, returning reliably each spring with minimal care. Once established, a single planting yields edible shoots for decades.

A little history. Native to eastern North America, P. biflorum spreads by horizontal underground stems called rhizomes; the circular scars left on the rhizome where old stems attached are the 'seals' that give the plant its name.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Transplant outside

4–6 weeks before last frost

Beds strongly preferred — rhizomes spread laterally and need 12–18 inches of loose, humus-rich soil depth. In containers: 15-gallon wide tub, minimum 18 inches deep. Space plants 18 inches (45 cm) apart.

Water and feed

All season

Water deeply once or twice a week during the first growing season; established plants need water only during dry spells. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry or leaves begin to look slightly dull. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.

Top-dress once each spring as shoots emerge; no mid-season feeding needed. What to use: 2–3 inches of leaf mold or well-aged compost worked lightly into the soil surface.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

Cut old stems to ground level in late fall after foliage yellows, or leave them standing over winter and cut back in early spring before new shoots push up.

Harvest and store

730–1095 days from transplant

It's ready when harvest shoots when they are 4–6 inches tall and tightly furled, before any leaves have fully opened — appearance closely resembles a young asparagus spear at this stage. Snap or cut shoots at ground level with a clean knife. Take no more than one-third of the shoots from any clump in a single season to preserve rhizome energy for the following year.

Use within 2–3 days; refrigerate upright in a jar with 1 inch of water, loosely covered, as you would asparagus. Do not freeze raw.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Hostas

Hostas want the same shade, steady moisture, and humus-rich soil, and their broad low leaves fill the ground beneath the arching stems without crowding the rhizomes. Watch slugs, since both plants feed them.

Ferns

Woodland ferns share the same cool, shaded, evenly moist conditions and root in the upper few inches, so they coexist without fighting for water. Their fine fronds also cover the gap left when shoots are cut in spring.

Wild Ginger

Wild ginger forms a low evergreen carpet that shades the soil, holds moisture over the shallow rhizomes, and crowds out weeds that would otherwise need hand-pulling near the crowns.

Trillium

Trillium is a spring-flowering woodland native with the same shade and leaf-mold requirements, and it finishes flowering as the Solomon's Seal stems arch over, so the two share the same square foot across the season.

Bleeding Heart

Bleeding heart thrives in the same partial shade and dies back by midsummer, leaving room and light for the Solomon's Seal foliage that is busy recharging the rhizome for next spring's shoots.

Keep it away from

Spearmint

Spearmint runs sideways underground and will thread through a Solomon's Seal clump within a season or two, making shoot harvest and any future division a tangle. Grow mint in a sunk pot or a separate bed well away from the patch.

Ornamental Grasses

Vigorous clumping and running grasses build dense fibrous root mats that out-muscle the shallow rhizomes for water and soil nutrients, and their bulk shades emerging shoots at exactly the wrong moment. Keep them at least 3 feet off.

See Solomon's Seal in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Rotation

A perennial — it holds its spot for years, so it sits outside the annual rotation.

A long-lived perennial that stays put, so no rotation applies and no family gap is needed. It is a moderate feeder that leaves behind a humus-rich, rhizome-laced bed; if you ever clear the patch, dig out every rhizome piece and rebuild the soil with compost before replanting.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Solomon's Seal sawfly

Sign
Leaves skeletonized or eaten to midrib from the tips downward; small pale-green caterpillar-like larvae visible on undersides.
Fix
Hand-pick larvae into soapy water; for heavy infestations, apply insecticidal soap directly to affected foliage.

Slugs

Sign
Ragged holes in young emerging shoots and lower leaves; silvery slime trails on soil surface nearby.
Fix
Set out iron phosphate bait around the base of plants at dusk; remove any mulch that sits directly against the stems.

Deer

Sign
Shoots or leafy stems browsed cleanly, often overnight, leaving ragged stem stubs.
Fix
Surround the bed with physical fencing at least 6 feet tall, or apply a contact deer repellent and reapply after rain.

Diseases

Leaf spot

Sign
Tan or brown circular spots with darker borders appearing on leaves in mid to late summer, sometimes causing early yellowing.
Prevent
Space plants to allow air movement; avoid overhead watering; remove and dispose of affected foliage rather than composting it.

Rhizome rot

Sign
Shoots fail to emerge in spring, or emerging shoots collapse at the base; rhizome sections feel soft and smell sour when dug.
Prevent
Plant in well-drained soil amended with compost; never let water pool around crowns; divide and replant congested clumps every 5-7 years.
Good to know:Berries are toxic — the blue-black fruits that form in late summer must not be eaten. Leaves and mature stems are not used as food. Confirm identification carefully before harvesting rhizomes.
FAQ

Common questions about Solomon's Seal

When should I plant Solomon's Seal?
Spring: as soon as soil can be worked, 4–6 weeks before last frost. Fall: 6–8 weeks before first hard frost, while soil is still workable.
How long until Solomon's Seal is ready to harvest?
730–1095 days, counted from transplant. It's ready when harvest shoots when they are 4–6 inches tall and tightly furled, before any leaves have fully opened — appearance closely resembles a young asparagus spear at this stage.
Can I grow Solomon's Seal in a container?
Beds strongly preferred — rhizomes spread laterally and need 12–18 inches of loose, humus-rich soil depth. In containers: 15-gallon wide tub, minimum 18 inches deep.
How often should I water Solomon's Seal?
Water deeply once or twice a week during the first growing season; established plants need water only during dry spells. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry or leaves begin to look slightly dull.
Is any part of Solomon's Seal unsafe to eat?
Berries are toxic — the blue-black fruits that form in late summer must not be eaten. Leaves and mature stems are not used as food. Confirm identification carefully before harvesting rhizomes.
How should I store Solomon's Seal after harvest?
Use within 2–3 days; refrigerate upright in a jar with 1 inch of water, loosely covered, as you would asparagus. Do not freeze raw.

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