Crop guide · The sesame family

How to grow Sesame

A heat-loving oilseed annual that stands upright through drought and stacks slender seed capsules along its stem from the ground up.

Sesamum indicum · also called Benne, Til

Full sun Intermediate Frost-tender
Sun
Full sun
 
Frost
Tender
Killed by the first light frost. Cut and dry plants before frost, and do not set seedlings out below 60 °F (16 °C) nights.
Spacing
5 in
13 cm between plants
Sow depth
½ in
13 mm
To harvest
90–150 days
counted from sowing
Timing

When to plant Sesame

Windows are counted from the average date of your last spring frost.

Spring:3–4 weeks before setting out, only where summers are short.
Too late?Do not sow with fewer than 100 frost-free days left — the crop needs steady heat right through capsule filling.
Background

Why grow Sesame

One sowing gives you fresh, aromatic seed for toasting and tahini, plus months of small tubular flowers that bees work steadily. It asks for little water once established.

A little history. One of the oldest cultivated oilseeds, grown across South Asia and Africa for thousands of years. Ripe capsules split along their seams and shed seed, so plants are cut just before they dry fully.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Start seeds indoors

3-4 weeks before setting out, only where summers are short

Sow no deeper than half an inch and keep the surface damp until sprouts show. Break any crust after hard rain so seedlings can push through. Seedlings emerge in 3–10 days in warm soil.

Best soil temp 75–85 °F (24–29 °C) Minimum 70 °F (21 °C) Emerges in 3–10 days

Sow outside

2–3 weeks after last frost

Sow seeds ½ inch (13 mm) deep.

Water and feed

All season

Water weekly while plants are young, then taper off once flowering begins. Water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry and leaves look dull at midday. Aim for about 1 inch per week early, less after flowering.

Compost before sowing, then side-dress once at first flower buds (scatter beside the row, water in). What to use: light feeder — finished compost or a low-nitrogen 5–10-10.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

Optional in short seasons: pinch the growing tip at about 2 feet so the plant stops making new flowers and ripens its existing capsules together.

Harvest and store

90–150 days from sowing

It's ready when the lowest capsules turn yellow-brown and begin to split at the tip, lower leaves have dropped, and the stalk is drying from the base up. Cut the whole stalk at ground level with pruners. Stand bundles upside down in paper bags or over a tarp in a dry, airy spot for 1–2 weeks, then shake so the seed falls free.

Dry seed until it is hard and crunchy, then store airtight in a cool dark cupboard for up to a year. Refrigerate or freeze to keep the oil from turning rancid.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Sorghum

A long-standing intercrop across dry farming regions: sorghum feeds from a dense mat of fibrous roots near the surface while sesame draws on a deeper taproot, so the two often share a bed without fighting over water. Give sesame its own row rather than sowing it in the shade of the sorghum canopy.

Cowpea

Cowpea takes the same heat and dry spells and banks nitrogen in its roots. That nitrogen is released mostly for the next season as the roots break down, so a cowpea row here this year sets up the bed rather than feeding sesame now.

French Marigold

French marigold roots release substances that suppress root-knot nematodes, a real problem for sesame in sandy soil. The effect has been shown only where marigolds are grown as a thick solid block or turned into the soil at season's end — a few edge flowers do nothing.

Sweet Alyssum

Low mats of sweet alyssum flower for months and draw in hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps whose larvae feed on aphids and small caterpillars. Sow a strip at the row end where it will not shade young sesame seedlings.

Okra

Two upright heat crops of different leaf shape and height break up the solid block of one plant that flying pests home in on. Keep okra on the north side so it does not shade the sesame row.

Keep it away from

Fennel

Fennel roots reliably stunt most garden vegetables, and slow-starting sesame seedlings are easy to check. Grow fennel in its own corner well away from the row — its flowers still earn a place by feeding hoverflies and tiny parasitic wasps.

Peppermint

Mint spreads by runners and will fill the row before sesame is knee-high, making it hard to cut and dry whole stalks cleanly. Keep it in a sunken pot or a separate bed.

Pumpkin

Sprawling vines run over young sesame within weeks and hold moisture around the stem bases, which invites stem rot. Give pumpkins their own ground, or at least 6 feet of clearance.

See Sesame in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Family rest

Easy-going — Sesame can grow almost anywhere in the rotation without a strict rest.

Good next crops

The pea and bean family, the cabbage family or the tomato family thrive in this ground next season.

A light feeder that leaves the bed in much the same shape it found it, with a woody stalk residue worth chopping before it goes to compost. Keep sesame out of the same ground for one year, then follow with peas or beans, a cabbage-family crop, or tomatoes and peppers.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Aphids

Sign
Clusters of small green or black insects on shoot tips and flower buds, with sticky leaves below.
Fix
Rinse colonies off with a firm water spray; repeat every few days until beneficial insects catch up.

Spider mites

Sign
Fine stippling on upper leaves, dusty webbing under them, worst in hot dry spells.
Fix
Spray the undersides of leaves with water in the morning; treat heavy runs with insecticidal soap.

Leaf-webbing caterpillars

Sign
Shoot tips and young capsules bound together with silk; chewed leaves inside the webbing.
Fix
Pinch off webbed tips and drop them in soapy water; check the row twice a week during flowering.

Cutworms

Sign
Young seedlings clipped off at the soil line overnight, often several in a row.
Fix
Push a cardboard collar 1 inch into the soil around each seedling; hunt at dusk under nearby clods.

Diseases

Damping-off

Sign
Seedlings topple with a pinched, water-soaked stem right at the soil line.
Prevent
Sow only into soil at 70F or warmer, keep the surface moist but never soggy, and thin early for airflow.

Alternaria leaf spot

Sign
Brown spots with faint rings on lower leaves, spreading upward in wet weather until leaves drop early.
Prevent
Water at the base, space rows 24 inches apart, and clear fallen leaves and stalks at season's end.

Fusarium wilt

Sign
One side of a plant yellows and wilts on a sunny day; the stem base is browned inside when cut.
Prevent
Pull and bin affected plants, and wait at least a year before sesame returns to the same ground.

Root and stem rot

Sign
Plants collapse after heavy rain; roots are soft, dark, and easily stripped.
Prevent
Plant on raised rows in any soil that puddles, and stop watering once capsules begin to fill.
FAQ

Common questions about Sesame

When should I plant Sesame?
Spring: 2–3 weeks after last frost, once soil holds at 70 °F (21 °C). Spring: 3–4 weeks before setting out, only where summers are short.
How long until Sesame is ready to harvest?
90–150 days, counted from sowing. It's ready when the lowest capsules turn yellow-brown and begin to split at the tip, lower leaves have dropped, and the stalk is drying from the base up.
Can I grow Sesame in a container?
Best in a bed with 12 inches of loose soil; a deep pot holds one or two plants. In containers: 5-gallon pot at least 12 inches deep, one plant.
How often should I water Sesame?
Water weekly while plants are young, then taper off once flowering begins. Water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry and leaves look dull at midday.
How should I store Sesame after harvest?
Dry seed until it is hard and crunchy, then store airtight in a cool dark cupboard for up to a year. Refrigerate or freeze to keep the oil from turning rancid.

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