Crop guide · The daylily family (Asphodelaceae)

How to grow Daylily

A vigorous perennial whose buds, open flowers, and young shoots are all edible — and whose spreading clumps reward division every few years.

Hemerocallis fulva · also called tawny daylily, common daylily

Full sun Beginner Frost-hardy
Sun
Full sun
Tolerates partial shade
Frost
Hardy
Established clumps survive hard frost
Spacing
18 in
45 cm between plants
Sow depth
1 in
25 mm
To harvest
60–365 days
counted from transplant
Soil pH
6.0–7.0
slightly acidic to neutral
Timing

When to plant Daylily

Spring
Transplant

As soon as the ground can be worked, 4–6 weeks before last frost.

Fall
Transplant

6–8 weeks before first fall frost, to allow roots to establish.

Background

Why grow Daylily

Every part of the plant offers a different harvest across the season: tender spring shoots, swelling flower buds, and open blooms. The plant requires almost no inputs once established and returns reliably each year.

A little history. Native to eastern Asia and naturalized widely in North America; spreads by fleshy rhizomes (underground stems) and tuberous roots. Each flower opens for a single day, giving the genus its name.

The season, step by step

From planting to harvest

Transplant outside

4–6 weeks before last frost

Beds strongly preferred; containers restrict the spreading root system and reduce vigor and yield. In containers: 15-gallon pot minimum, wide and deep. Space plants 18 inches (45 cm) apart.

Water and feed

All season

Deep soak once or twice a week during active growth and bud set; reduce after bloom. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry or foliage begins to look dull. Aim for about 1 inch per week including rain.

Side-dress (scatter fertilizer along the row and water in) once in early spring and once at bud set. What to use: balanced compost or a low-nitrogen 5–10-10 organic fertilizer; excess nitrogen favors leaves over buds.

Prune and maintain

As it grows

Remove spent flower stems at the base after all buds on that scape (flower stalk) have opened. Divide crowded clumps every 3–4 years in early spring or fall to maintain vigor and harvest yield.

Harvest and store

60–365 days from transplant

It's ready when shoots: 4–6 inches tall in spring. Buds: plump and fully formed but not yet open. Flowers: harvest open blooms the morning they open, before midday. Snap or cut shoots at soil level. Pinch buds cleanly from the scape. Twist or snip open flowers at the base of the petal tube. Leave at least half the buds on each scape to allow continued bloom.

Use buds and flowers the same day — they wilt within hours. Buds keep 1–2 days refrigerated in a sealed bag. Shoots keep 3–4 days refrigerated.

Companions

Good neighbours, bad neighbours

Plant it with

Hostas

Both are long-lived clump-formers that want steady moisture and tolerate part shade, so they share a bed without fighting. Hosta's broad low leaves fill the gap left when daylily foliage thins after bloom.

Black-eyed Susan

Its open daisy flowers are easy landing pads for hoverflies, lacewings, and tiny parasitic wasps, whose larvae work through the aphids that cluster on daylily flower stalks and buds.

Ornamental Grasses

Gardeners have long paired the two: both are tough, deep-rooted clumps with similar water and sun needs, and the grasses carry the planting after daylily bloom ends. Keep clumps 18 inches apart so airflow stays good.

Coneflower

Coneflower's long nectar season keeps bees and butterflies moving through the bed while daylily blooms come and go, and its upright habit does not crowd the daylily crown.

Keep it away from

Onion

Old companion charts keep daylilies away from the onion family, though no mechanism has been demonstrated. The practical objection is real enough: lifting onions each year disturbs the daylily's fleshy roots.

Garlic

Garlic is said to sit poorly with daylilies on traditional charts. What you can count on is the digging: garlic is planted and lifted on its own schedule, and that spadework tears through spreading daylily roots.

See Daylily in the full companion chart →

Crop rotation

After this crop

Rotation

A perennial — it holds its spot for years, so it sits outside the annual rotation.

A perennial that holds its ground, so no rotation gap applies and nothing follows it in the bed. It is a moderate feeder that builds a dense root mass; top-dress with compost each spring rather than replanting. When you divide, give the leftover space a season of compost before setting anything new there.

Trouble to watch for

Pests and diseases

Pests

Aphids

Sign
Clusters of small soft insects on emerging scapes and buds; sticky residue on foliage.
Fix
Knock off with a firm water spray; repeat daily for 3-4 days until population collapses.

Daylily gall midge

Sign
Swollen, distorted buds that fail to open; tiny white larvae visible when bud is cut open.
Fix
Remove and bag all distorted buds immediately; do not compost them. Destroy affected material.

Thrips

Sign
Silvery streaking or flecking on petals and buds; tiny slender insects visible with a hand lens.
Fix
Remove heavily infested buds; encourage predatory insects by planting nearby nectar sources.

Slugs

Sign
Ragged holes in young spring shoots and lower leaves; silvery slime trails on soil surface.
Fix
Set out shallow traps baited with beer at soil level; hand-pick at dusk.

Diseases

Daylily rust

Sign
Orange or yellow powdery pustules on leaf undersides; yellow streaking on upper leaf surface.
Prevent
Space plants for good airflow; remove and bag infected foliage promptly; avoid overhead watering.

Crown rot

Sign
Soft, water-soaked tissue at the base of the plant; foliage yellows and collapses from the center outward.
Prevent
Plant in well-drained soil; do not bury the crown below soil level; avoid overwatering in cool weather.

Leaf streak

Sign
Yellow to brown streaks running lengthwise on leaves, starting at tips and progressing downward.
Prevent
Water at the base rather than overhead; remove affected leaves; divide and thin crowded clumps.
Good to know:Confirmed toxic to cats and dogs — even small amounts can cause kidney failure in cats. The edibility of other Hemerocallis species and hybrids is not fully established; consume only Hemerocallis fulva and in moderate quantities, as large amounts have caused digestive upset in some individuals.
FAQ

Common questions about Daylily

When should I plant Daylily?
Spring: as soon as the ground can be worked, 4–6 weeks before last frost. Fall: 6–8 weeks before first fall frost, to allow roots to establish.
How long until Daylily is ready to harvest?
60–365 days, counted from transplant. It's ready when shoots: 4–6 inches tall in spring. Buds: plump and fully formed but not yet open. Flowers: harvest open blooms the morning they open, before midday.
Can I grow Daylily in a container?
Beds strongly preferred; containers restrict the spreading root system and reduce vigor and yield. In containers: 15-gallon pot minimum, wide and deep.
How often should I water Daylily?
Deep soak once or twice a week during active growth and bud set; reduce after bloom. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry or foliage begins to look dull.
Is any part of Daylily unsafe to eat?
Confirmed toxic to cats and dogs — even small amounts can cause kidney failure in cats. The edibility of other Hemerocallis species and hybrids is not fully established; consume only Hemerocallis fulva and in moderate quantities, as large amounts have caused digestive upset in some individuals.
How should I store Daylily after harvest?
Use buds and flowers the same day — they wilt within hours. Buds keep 1–2 days refrigerated in a sealed bag. Shoots keep 3–4 days refrigerated.

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